Diamond Lace Knit Kimono












IMG_1260 (1)


I am absolutely in LOVE with this kimono style cardigan.  I designed this cardigan to completely fit in with my style and wardrobe so I would get plenty of wear out of it.  The knit lace works perfect to layer in many different seasons and because it was made on larger needles it has the ideal drape for this type of piece.


In the image above, you can see when I spread my arms how large this piece actually is.  Because of this, I have labeled this pattern as one-size fits all.  If you want to get a larger or smaller fit, you can work this on a size smaller or larger needles.  You may also stretch more while blocking to get a larger fit.


The yarn I used to make this is absolutely my favorite yarn to knit sweaters with.  It has beautiful stitch definition, is so extremely soft, and keeps you perfectly warm because it is wool!  The color I used is linked in the first image below.  There are many colors of this yarn so I also linked a charcoal color as well.  I used 7 balls to make this sweater.



CLICK HERE to get the ad-free, printable pattern PDF


Materials Used:

Size 9 (5.5mm), 24” circular needle

7 balls Australian Superfine Merino by Cleckheaton 8ply in iceberg



16 stitches = 4” in stockinette stitch



M1R: Make one right

M1L: Make one left

P2TBL: Purl 2 through the back loop (left leaning purl decrease)

SSK: Slip, slip, knit

K2TOG: Knit 2 together

P2TOG: Purl 2 together



This pattern will be worked in one piece starting at the back, working up, and then down each front side.

Follow knitting chart for lace pattern. The back of the body will be worked as 9 diamond lace columns and each front side worked as 3.

There is an added stitch and the beginning and end of each row to be worked in stockinette stitch alongside the pattern.  The point of this stitch is to be used as a selvage to seam sides when completed.



Cast on 137.

1-6: knit

7: purl

8-23:  k1, knit following chart above 4 times and then the first 15 sts once more, k1.  (you now have 9 diamond repeats and an extra stitch and the beginning and end).

Repeat rows 8-23 three more times.


Armhole Shaping

Row 1: k1, M1L, continue in pattern, M1R, k1

2: k2, purl to last 2 stitches, knit 2

3: k2, M1L, continue in pattern, M1R, k2

4: k3, purl to last 3 stitches, k3

5: k3, M1L, continue in pattern, M1R, k3

6: k4, purl to last 4 stitches, k4

7: k4, M1L, Continue in pattern, M1R, k4

8: k5, purl to last 5 stitches, k5

9: k5, M1L, continue in pattern, M1R, k5

10: k6, purl to last 6 stitches, k6

Work even in pattern as established (k6, follow chart, k6) 3.5 diamond repeats (4 repeats from armpit beginning).


Neckline Shaping

k6, follow chart for 60 stitches, cast off middle 15 stitches, follow chart for next 60 stitches, k6.

Left Shoulder

1: k6, purl until last 2 stitches, p2tbl

2: ssk, work in pattern across, k6

Repeat above 2 rows until 52 stitches on needles for left front.

Work even for 3 diamond repeat lengths from this point.


Armhole Decreases

1: work in pattern across until last 6 stitches, ssk, k4.

2: k5, purl across.

Decrease on each right-side row as established 4 more times.


Left Front

Work even for 4 more diamond repeat lengths ending with a wrong-side row.

Purl 5 rows.

Cast off left front stitches in purl.



Right Shoulder

Work right front with the stitches remaining on the needles.

1: p2tog, purl across until last 6 stitches, k6

2: k6, work in pattern until last 2 stitches, k2tog

Repeat above 2 rows until 52 stitches on needles for right front.

Work even for 3 diamond repeat lengths from this point.


Armhole Decreases

1: k4, k2tog, work across in pattern

2: purl across, until last 5 stitches, k5

Decrease on each right-side row as established 4 more times.


Right Front

Work even for 4 more diamond repeat lengths ending with a wrong-side row.

Purl 5 rows.

Cast off right front stitches in purl.


Neckline Finishing

Pick up 3 out of every 4 stitches along front edges and every stitch on neckline.

Knit 6 rows, cast off in knit.


To finish, thread in all tails. To block, soak in warm water and lay flat to dry. Stitch side seams from bottom edge to armpit. Enjoy!

Please let me know if you have any questions or comments and don’t forget to subscribe if you like my patterns!

With Love, Kaitlin

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  1. I love this kimono, and want to make it very soon. I am a little confused on one thing. After row 7 (purl), how do I actually start row 8 to follow the symbols on the diamond lace? Thanks so much in advance for the help.

    Janet Thomas

    1. Hi Janet! Rows 8-23 are worked following the chart after you k1, at the beginning and end of each row. So for example, row 8 is worked as follows:
      k1, (k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog) 4 times, k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k6.
      I hope that this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions! I am so happy you like the pattern 🙂

  2. Dear Kaitlin
    The 8th row like you explained, i understand, but there is 137 stitches & the 18 sts extra?, where does they come from (after the 4 times repeat).
    Sorry if i ask dumb questions, your help will be appreciated.
    Kind regards
    Anita Labuschagne

    1. Hi Anita!
      Not a dumb question at all. For the back, you will work the chart 4 times across, and then the first diamond once more, so 9 columns of diamonds total across the back with a single knit stitch at the beginning and end (15*9=135 plus the 2 knit stitches =137).
      Then, when you increase for the armhole you are making stitches between that first stitch and the diamond pattern.
      Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any more questions!

  3. HI there lovely pattern! Any chance of the chart being written out? Many of us can’t use stitch charts, but I”d love to make this and I think I actually have the yarn in my stash! Thanks so much for your lovely work.

    1. Hello! I have the first row written out in another comment. The reason I used the chart is because the written instructions are so long!

  4. I understand how to read the chart and it is pretty easy but to use this chart the way it is written you need to do row 8 (I would be better to # the rows also so people could make a note as to which row they stopped on), then Row 9 is purled back. So on every other row do you do the 2 sections of the cart ( right and left of the center line) then go back and knit the first part again. IF that is true then there really should be another column of the first part, then repreat the chart as written. Am I understanding this correctly?

    1. Hi Debra, I have just updated the pattern to make this more clear. For row 8 you will sl1 p-wise, then begin working across the chart. Since there is 9 diamond repeats across the back of the pattern, you will work across the chart 4 times, and then work the first diamond (first 15 stitches of the chart) once more. The last stitch of the row will be knit. This centers the diamond repeats across the back and allows a selvage stitch on each side to seam up. Row 9 and all WS rows are worked by slipping the first stitch p-wise, and then purling back. I hope this clarifies things for you and anyone else wondering. Please let me know if you still have questions.

  5. Hi Kaitlin, I’ve just discovered this pattern through a friend and like it very much. I have pressed “download” but nothing seems to happen. Could you possibly check that the link works? I’d appreciate it. Warm regards,

    1. Hi Jo-Anne! I checked the link and it seems to be working for me. You could perhaps try right clicking and opening in a new window? Or if you would prefer you can email me at kaitlin@originallylovely.com and I will email you the PDF 🙂

  6. Measurements, please. Or a schematic. I can figure out the finished width close enough by the gauge, but there is no row gauge. I am making this now, in a substitute yarn of the same weight, but my gauge is a little different and I’m not sure if four and a half repeats up the back will be the right length to the sleeve increases.

    So far, I have found the pattern concise and easy to follow! Thank you for offering it for free!

    1. Hi Marlene! I have just measured the Kimono and laying flat it measures about 24” from the neck straight down to the waist and almost 31” wide.
      I do not include row gauge in my patterns because I want the focus to be on the stitch gauge to assure the right fit. Stitch gauge can be changed but row gauge is simply a product of the stitch gauge.
      If you desire your kimono to be longer you could repeat the chart once more! Although, I am nearly 6′ tall and this length is just perfect for me 🙂
      Let me know if you have any more questions! -Kaitlin

        1. It is about halfway, so almost 12″ from the bottom to the sleeve. This kimono has large sleeve openings you can see in the fifth image!

  7. Hi! I’m still new with reading written patterns so I just want to clarify a few things. In the Armhole shaping part, is correct that I need to repeat the diamond lace pattern 4 times? And then, do I need to finish that 4 repeat before continuing to the neckline shaping? Thanks!

    1. Hi Kristine! Yes that is correct. 4 total repeats worked even after row 10 in the armhole shaping section. 4 diamond repeats includes the part of the diamond worked in rows 1-10 in this section. Once this is completed you will separate for either front!
      Let me know if you still have questions 🙂

  8. Hi! I have another question. The selvage stitch at the beginning and the end of the row, should it be done all throughout the pattern (including the garter stitch at the beginning)?

    1. Yes! The selvage stitch always makes the ends look more polished and is easier to seam together. If you didn’t include the selvage in the beginning, that is ok! You can continue but just be sure to work a selvage from this point forward and pay extra attention when seaming 🙂

  9. I have begun this kimono, but I fear my gauge is off. I thought I was on gauge when I did a stockinette swatch, but my knitted lace pattern is about 4″ and the overall width across the bottom is 38 inches. Does my gauge sound OK?

    1. Hi Barbara! This kimono is designed to have a stretchy gauge. Because of this I went back and measured the kimono and when it is stretched it is almost 38″ wide. When relaxed about 31″. It is also able to stretch more because of the lace. I think you should be ok. Be sure not to stretch too much while measuring or blocking 🙂 Let me know if you have any more questions!

      1. I have another question. I saw the pics of those who have finished their project. One in particular looks as though there are set in sleeves which makes me think there should be some stitches knitted on at some point. I’ve started on the armhole increase and it doesn’t appear it will look like that picture at all (more like a cap sleeve). Have I erred in reading the pattern? Thanks for your response. PS I’m using the same yarn that you mentioned, and it has become my favorite too.

        1. You are working it correctly! The pattern is not designed to have long sleeves but yet develop sleeves through the shape of the ‘kimono’ drape. I think you are probably referring to the image where it is made in a bright pink color on Ravelry? That is not the original pattern, she seems to have increased and added the lace pattern to get longer sleeves. If you look at the original post and the other images people have posted there aren’t set in sleeves! I hope that helps explain it more, let me know if you still have questions. I am so glad you like the yarn I recommended! And not a bad price for such high quality wool 🙂

  10. Hi
    Just love the pattern and thank you for sharing. I have dropped down to a size 5 needle and it is looking good! I was just checking your replies so I now know I need to knit 12″ before I start the armhole as 4 repeats for me are not enough.
    The width still looks good, I have had to order more wool because I changed down a size in needles, hope they still have the same dyelot available.

  11. Hi, I have a question about the beginning and end .After cast on you garter stick for 6 rows purl 1 row and then start pattern . However at the end you purl 5 rows and cast off in purl. Wouldn’t it be better to keep it the same? I am using hand spun and dyed wool dipped in 3 colours with a single coloured band and it would look odd I think. Love the pattern though, challenging but interesting.

    1. Hello! Yes you do keep it even, because you end with a WS row, you work 5 rows in purl to keep it in line with the front. It is worked flat so working 5 rows in purl yields the same result as 5 rows garter stitch, you are just making sure the row count is the same so you can seam the sides with the front almost invisibly!

  12. Great pattern. For the shoulders, when you write to repeat the 2 decrease rows until there are 52 stitches on the needle, are you including the k6 edge? In assuming not, but I wanted to clarify before continuing!

  13. I think my earlier comment got eaten! I love this pattern–it is going to be beautiful when I finish. I have a couple questions about the shoulder, armhole decreases, and fronts. For the shoulders, when you say repeat the 2 decrease rows until 52 stitches remain on the needle, do those 52 stitches include the k6 edge? On the armhole decreases, are you knitting fewer edge stitches every row (for example, would row 3 be worked in pattern to the last 5 stitches, ssk, k3) and so on? And once you get to the front, do you revert back to slipping the first & last stitch purlwise or is that only for the back?

    1. Hello! Yes, the 52 stitches do include the k6 edge. This is 3 diamond repeats (15 sets each) a selvage stitch at the neckline edge, and the k6 armhole edge (52 sets total). For the armhole decreases, you are working the decreases “as established” so yes, row 3 would mean work in pattern to last 5 (vs 6 of row 1), and row 4 would mean k4, purl across (vs k5, purl across of row 2). Finally, yes you do continue with the selvage stitch, this makes it easier to sew the seams at the end 🙂
      Let me know if you have any more questions! Kaitlin

      1. Hi there, I am loving knitting this, but I am about 5 rows past the middle cast off section, i.e.the left shoulder and on the inside(front) edge, I am p2tbl and ssk. as indicated in the pattern. But I see in the picture that the inside (front) edge has the 6 stitch knitted edge like the outside arm edge. Am I missing something?

        1. Never mind, I just read to the end of the pattern and saw that that band gets added afterwards. Sorry for the bother!

          1. Hi Jennifer, yes, the band gets added at the end when you pick up the stitches. Hope you are enjoying the pattern 🙂

  14. I just love this kimono, and also your patterns you post. Will be starting to knit this one when I decide what color to knit it in. Thank you for all the free patterns

  15. Love this pattern 💕 I will be knitting it once I have some more practice, I am just returning to knitting again after a long absence. I have just found your blog and am finding it very interesting and loving many of your knitting patterns, thank you for offering them for free 😁

  16. This is my first true lace project, I was wondering how the left/right shoulders were done, to keep the pattern from shifting and keeping it in line, since it has the p2tbl. when I work across in the pattern, am I just starting at the beginning of that row in the chart and going across as it reads, or am I reading that wrong? I think i’m just confused as to how to do this portion.

    1. Hello! So there isn’t shaping in the shoulders, how the kimono drapes gives the shoulder shape! So when you begin working that section you will continue in the lace pattern as you have been. Let me know what spot specifically or if you need more help and I can explain it more 🙂

  17. Hi there. I am just getting past row 10 for the armhole shaping and was wondering what stitch i need to do for the odd rows. Is it suppose to be k6, purl till last 6, k6 until 4 complete diamond repeats? Thank you! I cant wait to finish! This is my first knitting project lol

    1. Hi Courtney! Yes, continue knitting ‘as established’ meaning you k6, purl to last 6, and then k6 🙂 Let me know if you have any other questions!

  18. Another question I have please. I am attempting the left shoulder. I did the 2 rows a couple of times and the pattern isn’t matching up. I’m thinking because the SSK decrease is screwing it up and then I guess it makes it so u have to follow the pattern backwards because the neckline row ends with the second set of 15 where the cast off is?? I have ripped it out a few times and have no idea what I’m doing wrong. I’m working in the round which is what the directions call for but it isn’t working for me. And just to make sure, the neckline shaping row is the first row on the bottom of the chart that is followed before making the shoulder? Please help!🙂

    1. Hi!
      You aren’t supposed to work in-the-round, the entire kimono is worked flat. Remember that you have a selvage stitches so that may be throwing off your count.

  19. Hi,
    I love this pattern. I have a question re: armhole shaping. I followed the instruction until Row 10 (followed table) and I also continued to the last 3 even lines of the table using K6 follow table K6 and on the next line the K6 p…K6. If I understand this correctly, should I repeat this 1-10 steps or I did 1-15 steps and do it 4 more times ?? before I go to the neckline shaping?
    Help I am confused.

    1. Hi! So rows 1-10 in this section are increasing for the armholes. After you have increased, you won’t increase again you will work the chart even in the k6, follow chart, k6 pattern until you have worked the chart 4 times total. The reason it says 3.5 times (4 times total) is because in rows 1-10 you have already completed half of the chart so you will work it 3.5 more times to give you 4 repeats total from the beginning of the armhole shaping. After you’ve repeated it 4 times, then you will move onto the neckline shaping

  20. Hi!.. Love this pattern but am finding it difficult to find a yarn similar to the one you use as I’m in the uk . .. Can it be any 8ply yarn? Thanks

    1. Hi Jill! Yes, most 8ply yarns will work. I would just play around with gauge and look for a more lofty yarn that has nice drape 🙂

  21. Hi, I’ve been working on the shoulder part and got a question. It said that when you reach 52 stitches, work even for 3 diamond repeat lengths from this point. So is the shoulder part a total of 3 diamond repeat lengths or 4 diamond repeat lengths? Does the decreasing part count in the 3 repeats? Please help! Thanks!

    1. Hi! The decreased stitches don’t count in the 3 additional diamond repeats, you will be knitting for 4 total diamond repeat lengths in this section. I hope this helps, Happy Knitting!

    1. Hi! The free pattern is accessible here, on the webpage. The printable PDF is available for purchase only. I haven’t lied, let alone lied again. I hope that helps, Happy Knitting!

  22. I found that if a marker is placed after each diamond pattern it was easier to follow and make less errors therefore no ripping. Very nice pattern and looks beautiful still knitting but love it very much. Thanks for the free pattern.

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