Perfect T-shirt Crochet Pattern
Introducing: The Perfect Crochet T-Shirt -- Free Crochet Pattern
This beginner friendly crochet pattern is worked in the round from the top, down. Crocheted quickly in linen stitch, this top is extremely comfortable and stylish.
The best part? It's also super fun to make!
Perfect T-Shirt Design
It seems like I am always searching for the perfect, everyday tee. Very rarely do I come across one that is just ~perfect~ and when I do, I buy a handful!
A perfect t-shirt, to me, needs to have a well shaped neckline. I love the look of a relaxed crew neck.
I don't want a t-shirt that is too tight or too loose. I prefer around 4" of positive ease for a relaxed fit that still looks polished.
The Crochet Pattern
I really wanted to be sure this pattern was fun and easy to make! I think summer is a time for relaxing and enjoying life so I wanted a pattern that fit right in with that vibe.
I used linen stitch (also called moss stitch) for this t-shirt. I love this stitch because it's super easy and quick to work. You are crocheting into gap spaces between stitches so its very easy to do without looking or paying much attention!
This pattern is worked primarily in-the-round from the top, down. At the beginning, you will crochet a couple rows flat to shape the front neckline so that it sits a bit lower than the back neckline. Then, you will join to work in the round and shape the shoulders, body, and sleeves.
Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern
© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2021
This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.
The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.
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Skill Level
Easy +
Materials
3, (4, 4, 5, 5), (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins / 696, (928, 928, 1160, 1160), (1392, 1392, 1624, 1624) yards Lion Brand Coboo Yarn (shown in White)
Size US F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Removable Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends
Notes
This raglan style t-shirt is worked from the top, down. After the first few rounds are worked flat to shape the front neckline, this t-shirt will be worked in the round.
Finished Dimensions
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X | |
| Bust/Chest Circumference | 32 | 36 | 40 | 44 | 48 | 52 | 56 | 60 | 64 |
| Length | 22.5 | 23 | 23 | 23.5 | 23.5 | 24 | 24 | 24.5 | 24.5 |
XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Perfect T-Shirt crochet pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.
Help Choosing Size
This top is designed to be worn with 0-4” of positive ease at the bust. Model is 6' tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size small with 3” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 0-4” larger than your corresponding bust measurement.
Gauge
19 sts and 17 rows = 4” in linen stitch
This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology
[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.
( ) = work instructions within parentheses as directed.
* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.
BLO = back loop only
CH = chain stitch
GAP SP = gap space, this is referring to the gap that is created between each double crochet cluster
RD = round
RS = right side
SC = single crochet
SLST = slip stitch
SK = skip the next stitch
SP = space
ST = stitch
STS = stitches
WS = wrong side
Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern
Ch 92 (92, 92, 92, 92) (92, 92, 92, 92) sts.
Set-up Row: beginning in 4th ch from hook, SC, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (10, 10, 10, 10) times, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 20 (20, 20, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) times, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (10, 10, 10, 10) times, ch2, SC, ch3, turn.
You will now begin shaping the raglans and neckline. Each ch2 sp worked in the previous row is a corner where the raglans will be increased.
Row 1: * [SC, ch2, SC] in ch2 gap sp, ch1, [SC, ch1], in each gap sp to next corner. Rep from * to final corner sp, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp, ch1, [SC, ch1, SC] in turning ch from previous row, ch3, turn.
2: * [SC ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp, ch1. Rep from * three more times, [SC, ch1] until turning ch from previous row, [SC, ch1, SC] in turning ch, ch3, turn.
3-10: Rep row 2. On the final row, do not ch3 and turn.
Neckline Join:
You will now join the neckline and begin working in the round.
Ch18 (18, 18, 18, 18) (22, 22, 22, 22), careful not to twist work, SC into turning ch sp on opposite end of neckline to join in rd.
You are going to be working in the round in a spiral with no distinct beg/end of each rd. You may place a st marker here to denote this point as the beg/end of each rd to better keep track of raglan increase rounds worked.
Set-up Round: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp. Rep from * 3 more times, ch1, [SC, ch1] to front neckline ch, sk the first ch, SC into next ch, ch1, [sk next ch, SC into next ch, ch1] to end of rd.
Round 1: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch1, SC] in corner sp. Rep from * 3 more times, [ch1, SC] in each gap sp to end of rd.
Repeat Round 1 3, (8, 12, 17, 22) (25, 29, 34, 39) more times. Counting only the SC sts, no t the ch sts, you will have 27, (32, 36, 41, 46), (47, 51, 56, 61) st for each sleeve and 36, (41, 45, 50, 55), (60, 64, 69, 74) sts for both the front and the back.
Separate for Body:
You will now separate the sleeves from the body and begin working the body in the round.
Next row: * Ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, SC into corner sp, ch5, sk all sleeve sts to next corner sp, SC into corner sp. Rep from * once more. This will now be beg/end of each rd.
The lower part of the neckline that you shaped will be the front of your shirt and the 5 ch sts will be each underarm.
1: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to underarm ch sts, SC into first ch, [ch1, sk1, SC] 2x, ch1, rep from * once more.
Work even by [SC, ch1] in each gap sp until piece measures 14, (13.5, 13, 12.5, 12), (12, 11, 10.5, 10)” from underarm. You may work more/less at this point to make your top longer/shorter.
Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.
Sleeves:
Beginning at the right side of one underarm, [SC ch1] into each of the 4 gap spaces at the underarm, [SC, ch1] around arm opening to underarm, slst with first SC to join. This will be beg/end of each round.
Work even by [SC, ch1] in each gap sp until piece measures. 1.5” from underarm. You may work more/less at this point to make your sleeve longer/shorter.
Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Neckline:
Starting in the raglan gap at the left side of the back neckline, [SC, ch1] into the raglan gap, [SC, ch1] in each of the 11 (11, 11, 11, 11), (9, 9, 9, 9) gap sp to the next raglan, [SC, ch1] in the next 6 gap sp down the side of neckline, [SC, ch1] in the next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9), (11, 11, 11, 11) gap sp across center front neckline, [SC, ch1] in the next 6 gap sp up the other side of neckline, [SC ch1] in each of the next 12 (12, 12, 12, 12), (10, 10, 10, 10) gap sp to final raglan, [SC, ch1] into the final 20 (20, 20, 20, 20), (22, 22, 22, 22) gap sp across back.
Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends to secure.
Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry.
Enjoy!
