Lumi Sweater Knitting Pattern
Introducing: the Lumi Sweater - lace circular yoke knitting pattern
The Lumi Sweater is a cozy lace yoke knitting pattern worked in-the-round from the top, down. Feels Like Butta yarn paired with reverse stockinette stitch creates a beautiful squishy texture perfect for chilly winter months.
The Design
This inspiration for this sweater came from a snowflake! I love the simple, delicate beauty of snowflakes and wanted to bring that into a circular yoke design.
If you've never knit a circular yoke pullover before, I'll give you a quick overview. Basically, you start at the neckline and work outward with strategically placed increases to create a 'circle' shape. Then, you'll separate into three sections, one for the body, and one for each sleeve, to work downward from the yoke and form the rest of the sweater!
One unique aspect of this sweater is that its worked inside-out! Most knitters prefer to work knit stitch more that purl stitch. By working the sweater inside-out, you are able to get the textured look of reverse stockinette with the ease of knitting!
Size and Fit
This knitting pattern is relaxed, cozy, and comfortable. I designed it to have barely any shaping in the sleeves for a super simple fit. This gives the look of a relaxed sleeve without the bulkiness of a full puff sleeve!
The Lumi Sweater is designed to be worn with 6-10" of positive ease. What this means is that you choose a size of the sweater that is 6-10" larger than your corresponding bust measurement. I have more information on this below under 'Help Choosing Size' section of the pattern. If you prefer your sweaters to be tighter ro more relaxed, choose a size with more or less easy accordingly!
This knitting pattern is size inclusive and available in sizes XS-5XL!
Lumi Snowflake Sweater Knitting Pattern
To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Lumi Sweater on Ravelry CLICK HERE
To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Lumi Sweater on Etsy CLICK HERE
Skill Level
Intermediate
Materials
4, (4, 4, 5, 5), (5, 6, 6, 6) skeins / 876, (876, 876, 1095, 1095), (1095, 1314, 1314, 1314) yards Lion Brand Feels Like Butta Yarn (shown in White)
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) 32” circular knitting needles (for body of sweater)
Size US 10 (6.0 mm) double pointed needles or small circular needle (for sleeves)
Size US 8 (5.0 mm) circular knitting needle or double pointed needles (for neckline, hem, and sleeve cuffs)
Stitch Markers
Stitch holder or scrap yarn
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends
Notes
This fluffy circular, lace yoke knitting pattern is designed from the top, down. Because most knitters prefer to work knit stitches over purl stitches, this sweater is worked inside-out for a reverse stockinette stitch texture. Larger size needles are chosen to give an airy, relaxed fit.
Finished Dimensions
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X | |
| Bust/Chest Circumference | 38 | 42 | 46 | 50 | 54 | 58 | 62 | 66 | 70 |
| Length | 22 | 23 | 23 | 24 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 26 | 26 |
XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Help Choosing Size
This top is designed to be worn with 6-10” of positive ease at the bust. Model is 6' tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size small with 9” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 6-10” larger than your corresponding bust measurement.
Gauge
16 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on size 10 needles
Abbreviations
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
K = knit
M = stitch marker
M1LP = make one left purl. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from the front to the back, purl through the back.
M1RP = make one right purl. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from the back to the front, purl through the front.
P = purl
Pfb = purl front back
PM = place marker
P2tog = purl 2 together
P3tog = purl 3 together
Ssp = slip slip purl. Slip the next stitch as if to purl, slip the following stitch as if to knit. Slip these 2 stitches back to the left needle as if to purl. Purl these stitches together through the back loop.
SM = slip marker
YO = yarn over
[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
Lumi Sweater Knitting Pattern
With size 8 needles, Cast On 100, (100, 100, 102, 102), (102, 105, 105, 105) sts using long tail cast on. Join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of rounds.
Rounds 1-4: purl.
5 (XS, S, M): [p4, pfb] to end of round. [120 sts].
5 (L, XL, 2X): [p2, pfb] to end of round. [136 sts].
5 (3X, 4X, 5X): [p2, pfb] to end of round. [140 sts].
6 (XS): purl. [120 sts].
6 (S): [p14, pfb] to end of round. [128 sts].
6 (M): [p4, pfb] to end of round. [144 sts].
6 (L): [p7, pfb, p8, pfb] to end of round. [152 sts].
6 (XL): [p2, pfb, p2, pfb, p4, pfb, p5, pfb] to end of round. [168 sts].
6 (2X): [p1, pfb] 12 times, [p3, pfb] to end of round. [176 sts].
6 (3X, 4X, 5X): [k3, pfb] to end of round. [175 sts].
7 (3X): p4, pfb, p4, pfb, [p10, pfb] to end of round. [192 sts].
7 (4X): [p6, pfb] to end of round. [200 sts].
7 (5X): p1, pfb, p2, pfb, [p4, pfb] to end of round. [216 sts].
Yoke:
You will now begin working the lace yoke of your sweater. You should have one round with [120 (128, 144, 152, 168), (176, 192, 200, 216) sts total].
If you prefer to work from stitch charts, you may follow the chart shown above.
On the next round, switch to size 10 needles.
1: [k4, p1, k3] to end of round.
2-10: as round 1.
11: [k4, M1LP, p1, M1RP, k3] to end of round. [150, (160, 180, 190, 210), (220, 240, 250, 270) sts].
12: [k3, ssp, YO, p1, YO, p2tog, k2] to end of round.
13: [k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2] to end of round.
14: [k2, ssp, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, p2tog, k1] to end of round.
15: [k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1] to end of round.
16: [k1, ssp, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, p2tog] to end of round.
17: [k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1] to last st, leave last st to work with first st of next round. Remove stitch marker.
18: PM, [p3tog, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO] to end of round.
19: [k5, p1, k4] to end of round.
20: as 19.
21: [k5, M1LP, p1, M1RP, k4] to end of round. [180, (192, 216, 228, 252), (264, 288, 300, 324) sts].
22: [k4, ssp, YO, p1, YO, p2tog, k3] to end of round.
23: [k4, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3] to end of round.
24: [k3, ssp, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, p2tog, k2] to end of round.
25: [k3, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2] to end of round.
26: [k2, ssp, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, p2tog, k1] to end of round.
27: [k2, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1] to end of round.
28: [k1, ssp, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO, p2tog] to end of round.
29: [k6, p1, k5] to end of round.
30: as 29.
31: [k6, M1LP, p1, M1RP, k5] to end of round. [210, (224, 252, 266, 294), (308, 336, 350, 378) sts].
32: [k5, ssp, YO, p1, YO, p2tog, k4] to end of round.
33: [k5, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4] to end of round.
34: [k4, ssp, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, p2tog, k3] to end of round.
35: [k4, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k3] to end of round.
36: [k3, ssp, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, p2tog, k2] to end of round.
37: [k3, p1, k3, p1, k3, p1, k2] to end of round.
38: [k2, ssp, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO, p2tog, k1] to end of round.
39: [k7, p1, k6] to end of round.
40: as 39.
41: [k7, M1LP, p1, M1RP, k6] to end of round. [240, (256, 288, 304, 336), (352, 384, 400, 432) sts].
42: [k6, ssp, YO, p1, YO, p2tog, k5] to end of round.
43: [k6, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k5] to end of round.
44: [k5, ssp, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, p2tog, k4] to end of round.
45: [k8, p1, k7] to end of round.
46: as 45.
Knit 0, (2, 5, 7, 10) (12, 15, 17, 20) more rounds even.
Separate Yoke:
You will now separate the yoke to work the body and the sleeves:
K 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) (112, 120, 128, 136) sts, slip next 48 (48, 56, 56, 64) (64, 72, 72, 80) onto stitch holder or scrap yarn, CO 4 sts, k next 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) (112, 120, 128, 136) sts, slip remaining 48 (48, 56, 56, 64) (64, 72, 72, 80) sts onto st holder or scrap yarn, CO 4 sts, join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of each round.
You will now have one round with 156, (168, 184, 200, 216) (232, 248, 264, 280) sts for the body of the sweater.
Knit even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 12, (13, 12, 13, 12), (13, 12, 13, 12) inches from underarm CO sts.
On the next round, switch to size 8 needles.
Work 8 rounds in k1, p1 rib stitch. Bind off.
Sleeves:
Pick up the 48, (48, 56, 56, 64), (64, 72, 72, 80) sts set aside on stitch holder to work the first sleeve. Pick up 6 sts at underarm (the 4 sts cast on at underarm and 1 on either side to close the gap). [54, (54, 62, 62, 70), (70, 78, 78, 86) sts].
Work even in stst until sleeve measures 14” from underarm.
On the next round, switch to size 8 needles and decrease for cuff.
Decrease Row: k2tog, [k2, k2tog] to end of round.
Work 8 rounds in k1, p1, rib stitch. Bind off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends to secure.
Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry. Blocking is important and will help the lace yoke of this knitting pattern look detailed and even!
Enjoy!
I hope that you enjoyed this lace yoke knitting pattern!
