May 07, 2021

Maria Top Crochet Pattern

by Kaitlin Barthold

Introducing: The Maria Top -- Free Crochet Pattern

This beginner friendly crochet top pattern is worked from the top, down in granny stitch.

maria top crochet pattern main image, model sitting on sidewalk in front of white building wearing a multicolored crocheted top worked in granny stitch

detail image of maria top showing the individual granny stitches and stripe detailing. Image is closeup with light shining on the top and shaded trees behind

side image of maria top on model looking down sitting in front of a white building.

Maria Top Crochet Pattern

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Maria Top on Ravelry, CLICK HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Maria Top on Etsy, CLICK HERE

Skill Level

Easy +

Materials

350, (375, 425, 475, 500), (550, 600, 650, 700) grams / 815, (870, 985, 1100, 1160), (1275, 1395, 1510, 1625) yards Lion Brand Coboo yarn; 1, (1, 1, 1, 1), (2, 2, 2, 2) balls in each color Taupe, Tan, Mauve, Pale Pink, and White.
Size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook (my favorite crochet hook set linked here)
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

NOTE ON YARN: As mentioned above, you can make this more cost effective by using more colors for the larger sizes and use more full balls. For example, with size 5X you may choose to use 7 colors, each in a 100g ball of yarn.

Notes

This pattern is worked seamlessly from the top, down. You will begin at the neckline, increase in a raglan style to shape your sleeves and body, and then separate. Your body will be finished first, followed by each sleeve. This top is shown using 5 colors and switching after each row in the same order throughout the sweater. You may use more or less colors depending on your preference.

NOTE: In this pattern, the ch3 at the end each row counts as the first double crochet for the next row.

Finished Dimensions

crochet top pattern schematic drawing showing the dimensions for various sizes to help crocheters choose what size to make

	XS	S	M	L	XL	2X	3X	4X	5X
Bust/Chest Circumference	32.5	36	39.5	44.5	48	51.5	56.5	60	63.5
Finished Length	22.5	23	23	23.5	23.5	24	24	24.5	24.5

Measurements are finished sweater dimensions and are given in inches

XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Crochet pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.

Help Choosing Size

This top is designed to be worn with 0-4” of positive ease. Model is 6’ tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size Small with 3” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 0-4” larger than your corresponding bust measurement. For example, if your bust is 45”, you would wear a size XL.

Gauge

14 stitches and 11 rows = 4” in granny stitch using size 4.0 mm crochet hook.

Note on gauge: We are counting each DC as a stitch NOT the 3DC clusters that makes up each granny stitch cluster. This gauge is quite stretchy so be sure not to stretch fabric when you are measuring gauge.

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using U.S. English terminology using Craft Yarn Council Standards

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.

( ) = work instructions within parenthesis as directed.

* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

BLO = back loop only

CH = chain stitch

DC = double crochet

GAP SP = gap space, this is referring to the gap that is created between each double crochet cluster

HDC = half double crochet

RS = right side

SC = single crochet

SLST = slip stitch

SP = space

ST = stitch

STS = stitches

WS = wrong side

Maria Top Crochet Pattern

In Color A, ch 86 (92, 98, 92, 92) (98, 104, 104, 104).

Round 1: in 3rd ch from hook, DC, DC across once in each ch. With new color, slst to join in round, ch3. [84, (90, 96, 90, 90), (96, 102, 102, 102) sts].

2: 2 DC in same st as ch, [skip 2 sts, 3 DC into next st] 5 (5, 5, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 8 (9, 10, 10, 10) (11, 12, 12, 12) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 6 (6, 6, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 8 (9, 10, 10, 10) (11, 12, 12, 12) times, ch2. With new color, slst to join with 1st st, ch3. [92, (98, 104, 98, 98), (104, 110, 110, 110) sts].

Note: You have now set up to shape your raglans. Your piece will look like a rectangle and each ch2 space is a corner. The second and fourth sides will be the body, and the first and third sides will be the sleeves. You will now increase in the chain spaces on each row to shape the raglan yoke.

3: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap space to the ch2 sp, * (3 DC, ch2, 3 DC) in the ch2 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch2 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, 3 DC, ch2, slst with new color to join, ch3. [104, (110, 116, 110, 110), (116, 122, 122, 122) sts].

Repeat row 3 9, (10, 11, 14, 16), (17, 19, 21, 23) more times. [212, (230, 248, 278, 302), (320, 350, 374, 398) sts].

4: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to the ch2 sp, * (3 DC, ch1, 3 DC) in the ch2 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch2 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, 3 DC, ch1, slst with new color to join, ch3. [220, (238, 256, 286, 310), (328, 358, 382, 406) sts].

5: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to the ch1 sp, *3 dc in the ch 1 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch1 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, slst with new color to join, ch3. [216, (234, 252, 282, 306), (324, 354, 378, 402) sts].

Body:

You will now separate your yoke to form two sleeves and join the body of your sweater.

6: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, ch6, skip next 17 (18, 19, 21, 23) (24, 26, 28, 30) gap spaces, 3 DC in next 19 (21, 23, 26, 28) (30, 33, 35, 37) gap spaces, ch6, skip next 17 (18, 19, 21, 23) (24, 26, 28, 30) gap spaces, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3. [120, (132, 144, 162, 174), (186, 204, 216, 228) sts].

7: skip 4 sts, 3 DC in 5th st (the second ch of the ch6), skip 2, 3 DC in next st, 3 DC in each gap sp until next ch6 sp, 3 DC in second ch st, skip 2, 3 DC in next ch st, 3 DC in each gap sp until last st, 2 DC in the final gap st next to the ch3, slst with new color to join, ch3.

8: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3.

9: skip the gap sp below the slst join, 3 DC in next gap sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, 2 DC in gap sp under slst join, slst with new color to join, ch3.

Repeat rounds 8-9 until body measures 13.5, (13.5, 13, 12.75, 12), (12, 11.25, 10.75, 10)” from underarm join. You may work more or less rows at this point to make your top longer or shorter. On the last round, ch2 at the end instead of ch3.

Final Round: 1 DC in each st around (be sure to work into the stitches, not the gap spaces), slst to join.

Pull the last stitch all the way through to secure, cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

Sleeves:

You will now work each sleeve.

Starting at the center underarm st, begin working in the color next in sequence for your sleeves. See fig. 1 below for help understanding where your underarm st clusters will go.

figure one of the underarm of the maria top crochet pattern detailing where to put the stitches at the underarm as to avoid gapping or holes — Figure 1

1: ch3 into center underarm sp, 2 DC in this same sp, 3 DC in each gap sp around sleeve, slst with new color to join, ch3. [60, (63, 66, 72, 78), (81, 87, 93, 99) sts].

2: skip the gap sp below the slst join, 3 DC in next gap sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, 2 DC in gap sp under slst join, slst with new color to join, ch3.

3: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3.

Repeat rounds 2-3 once more. You may work more rows at this point if you want your sleeves to be longer.

Final Round: 1 DC in each st around (be sure to work into the stitches, not the gap spaces), slst to join.

Pull the last stitch all the way through to secure, cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

Repeat for second sleeve.