Argyle Sweater Vest Knitting Pattern

Introducing: Argyle Sweater Vest — Free Knitting Pattern

This Argyle Sweater Vest combines cables and lace for a modern take on a classic style. This knitting pattern is a perfect addition to your preppy warm weather wardrobe!

Scroll down to access the free pattern, shop the Knit Kit with Lion Brand Yarn, or keep reading to learn a bit more about the design.

This knitting pattern is part of Lion Brand Yarn’s Summer 2021 Collection. Click here to shop the other knitting and crochet kits!

The Design

I am so excited to see this design finally come to life. This year, I’ve been trying to work smarter and not harder. Designing this pattern was definitely working harder! It was a major challenge to design AND grade this pattern up to 5XL!

Now that it’s finished, I’m super happy with the result. This argyle vest really combines a lot of my favorite aspects of knitting. I know it will be one of those knitting patterns that I’ll always remember and show people when they ask to see some of my designs.

Skill Level

Before we get any further, I want to mention that this is an advanced level knitting pattern. To make this pattern you will need to know how to work cables and lace stitches and feel confident following cable charts.

I’ll do my best to answer questions here and there when needed but I can’t help every step of the way or completely teach anyone how to make this, it’s just not possible!

So definitely only tackle this pattern if you know that you are able to work cables and cable charts! If you want to learn a bit more about working cable charts, check out this article from Brooklyn Tweed.

The Yarn

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Lion Brand Coboo is the best warm weather yarn out there. It is a true DK weight so its super easy to sub and its amazingly soft and cooling. This yarn is composed of 50% cotton and 50% bamboo which is so amazing as I try to use as many natural materials as possible.

Yarn Substitutions

If you want to use a different yarn for this sweater or possibly make it with something a bit warmer for cold weather, I’ve attached some of my recommendations below.

• Truboo Yarn by Lion Brand — this yarn is also super soft and is a bit silkier than Coboo. It is a little thinner as well so your vest might be a bit more lofty.

• LB Collection Superwash Merino — a superwash merino wool from Lion Brand, this is the yarn I used in my Polo Sweater Knitting Pattern!

• LB Collection Cotton Bamboo — another cotton bamboo blend, this yarn is part of Lion Brand’s luxury yarn line.

• Swish DK by KnitPicks — this yarn is 100% merino wool, super affordable, and comes in tons of colors. Merino wool is my favorite cold weather yarn so this is a great option.

• City Tweed DK by KnitPicks — the tweed specks in this yarn would make a stunning vest. I think the combination of tweed and argyle would make the ultimate preppy, fall weather garment!

As always, be sure to gauge swatch when substituting yarn! Gauge swatching is very important when it comes to garments and the correct gauge will assure that your sweater will fit!

Argyle Sweater Vest Knitting Pattern

© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2021

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.

Shop the Kit with Lion Brand Yarn HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the pattern on Ravelry HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the pattern on Etsy HERE

Skill Level

Advanced

For this pattern, you will need to know how to work cables and lace stitches and feel confident following cable charts.

Materials

3, (3, 4, 4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 6) skeins / approx 696, (696, 928, 928, 928), (1160, 1160, 1160, 1392) yards Lion Brand Yarn Coboo (shown in Olive)

Size US 6 (4.0 mm) circular knitting needles (for ribbing)

Size US 7 (4.5 mm) circular knitting needles (for body)

Cable Needle

Stitch Markers

Stitch holder or scrap yarn

Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

Notes

This sweater vest is worked from bottom, up. Main body piece will be knit in the round, front and back pieces will be worked flat and then joined at the shoulders. Stitches will be picked up around the neckline and arm openings to work ribbing.

Finished Dimensions

	XS	S	M	L	XL	2X	3X	4X	5X
Bust/Chest Circumference	36	40	44	48	52	56	60	64	68
Finished Width	18	20	22	24	26	28	30	32	34
Finished Length	25	25	25	26.25	26.25	26.25	27.25	27.25	27.25

XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Knitting pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin. 

Help Choosing Size

This sweater is designed to be worn with 6-8” of positive ease. Model is 6’ tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size Smallwith 7” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is closest to 6-8” larger than your corresponding bust measurement. For example, if your bust is 50”, you would wear a size 2X. If you prefer your garments to fit looser or more snug, choose a size with less or more ease accordingly.

Gauge

18 stitches and 30 rows = 4” in argyle cable motif on size 7 needles

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology using Craft Yarn Council Standards.

BO = bind off

CO = cast on

C1B = (cable one back) slip next knit stitch onto cable needle and hold in back o f work, knit 1 from left hand needle, knit 1 from cable needle. Tutorial linked here.

C1F = (cable one front) slip next knit stitch onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit 1 from left hand needle, knit 1 from cable needle. Tutorial linked here.

K = knit

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right leaning single decrease)

k3tog = knit 3 stitches together (right leaning double decrease)

M = stitch marker

P = purl

PM = place stitch marker

RM = remove stitch marker

RS = right side

sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise with the working yarn in back

SM = slip stitch marker

SSK = slip slip knit (left leaning single decrease)

st = stitch

WS = wrong side

YO = yarn over

3LC = (left cross around a central stitch, worked using next 3 stitches) slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold in front of work, slip next 2 stitches onto right hand needle, slip stitch from cable needle onto right hand needle, slip all 3 stitches back to left needle. C1B, Knit 1.

3RC = (right cross around a central stitch, worked using next 3 stitches) slip next 2 stitches onto right hand needle purl-wise, slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold in front of work, slip the two stitches previously slipped back onto left hand needle, slip stitch from cable needle back onto left needle. Knit 1, C1F.

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

Argyle Sweater Vest Knitting Pattern

Cast on 162, (180, 198, 216, 234), (252, 270, 288, 306) st s using long tail tubular cast on using size 6 needles. Join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of each round.

Work 2” in k1, p1 rib stitch.

On the next round, switch to size 7 needles.

K one round.

You will now begin working argyle cable motiff.

Note: One cable repeat is shown in the shaded area. The 3RC and 3LC that are cut off on either side of the shaded area are worked with the stitches of the adjacent cable repeat.

For the body section, you will be working the cable chart in the round. To get you started, rounds 1-32 are written out below.

Round 1: * sl1, k15, sl1, k1. Rep from * to end of rd.

2: k6, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, 3RC, * k5, k2t og, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, 3RC. Rep from * to end of rd, working final 3RC with first st of next rd.

3: k15, sl1, k1 * sl1, k15, sl1, k1. Rep from * to end of rd.

4: * c1f, k3, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k3, c1b, k1. R ep from * to end of rd.

5: * k1, sl1, k13, sl1, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

6: * k1, c1f, k1, k2tog, YO, k5, YO, ssk, k1, c1b, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

7: * k2, sl1, k11, sl1, k3. Rep from * to end of rd.

8: * k2, c1f, k9, c1b, k3. Rep from * to end of rd.

9: * k3, sl1, k9, sl1, k4. Rep from * to end of rd.

10: * k1, k2tog, YO, c1f, k7, c1b, YO, ssk, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

11: * k4, sl1, k7, sl1, k5. Rep from * to end of rd.

12: * k2tog, YO, k2, c1f, k5, c1b, k2, YO, ssk, k1. Rep from * to end of rd.

13: * k5, sl1, k5, sl1, k6. Rep from * to end of rd.

14: k1, * YO, k4, c1f, k3, c1b, k4, YO, k3tog. Rep from * to end of rd, working final k3tog with first st of next rd.

15: * k6, sl1, k3, sl1, k7. R ep from * to end of rd.

16: * k6, c1f, k, c1b, k5, k2tog, YO. Rep from * to end of rd.

17: * k7, sl1, k1, sl1, k8. Rep from * to end of rd.

18: * YO, ssk, k5, 3LC, k5, k2tog, YO, k1. Rep from * to end of rd.

19: * k7, sl1, k, sl1, k8. Rep from * to end of rd.

20: * k1, YO, ssk, k3, c1b, k1, c1f , k3, k2tog, YO, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

21: * k6, sl1, k3, sl1, k7. Rep from * to end of rd.

22: * k2, YO, ssk, k1, c1b, k3, c1f , k, k2tog, YO, k3. Rep from * to end of rd.

23: * k5, sl1, k5, sl1, k6. Rep from * to end of rd.

24: * k4, c1b, k5, c1f, k5. Rep from * to end of rd.

25: * k4, sl1, k7, sl1, k5. Rep from * to end of rd.

26: * k3, c1b, YO, ssk, k3, k2tog, YO, c1f, k4. Rep from * to end of rd.

27: * k3, sl1, k9, sl1, k4. Rep from * to end of rd.

28: * k2, c1b, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, c1f, k3. Rep from * to end of rd.

29: * k2, sl1, k11, sl1, k3. Rep from * to end of rd.

30: * k1, c1b, k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k4, c1f, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

31: * k1, sl1, k13, sl1, k2. Rep from * to end of rd.

32: * c1b, k5, k2tog, YO, k6, c1f, k1. Rep from * to end of rd.

Repeat rounds 1-32 twice more.

Separate Front and Back:

On the next round, you will bind of sts for the underarms and begin working the left neckline, right neckline, and then the back pieces separately. You will work each of these pieces flat. From this point forward, you will be directed to ‘work in patt’. This means to continue in the argyle cable pattern as established.

Set Up: Remove M, work 8 (8, 2, 14, 12) (8, 3, 18, 13). PM. This M will denote end of next round and where you will begin working the left front.

1: work 73 (73, 85, 97, 101) (109, 119, 127, 137) sts in p att, BO the next 8 (17, 14, 11, 16) (17, 16, 17, 18) sts in knit, work 73 (73, 85, 97, 101) (109, 119, 127, 137) sts in patt, BO the next 8 (17, 14, 11, 16) (17, 16, 17, 18) sts.

NOTE: From this point forward, the beginning and ending two stitches of each row will be knit in stockinette stitch regardless of where you are in the cable patt. This means, if you are supposed to work [k2tog, YO] within the first or final 2 sts of the row, you will not work the [k2tog, YO], you will simply knit these stitches. This also applies to a 3LC or 3RC where part of the 3LC or 3RC is within the beg or ending st of the row. If this is the case, you will not work the 3LC or 3RC.

Left Front:

You will now work the next 37 (37, 43, 49, 51) (55, 60, 64, 69) st s flat to shape the Left Front.

1 (RS): work 34 (34, 40, 46, 48) (52, 57, 61, 66) sts in patt, k3tog, turn. [35, (35, 41, 47, 49), (53, 58, 62, 67) sts].

2 and all WS rows: purl, slipping sts according to patt.

3: work in patt to last 2, k2tog. [34, (34, 40, 46, 48), (52, 57, 61, 66) sts].

5-22: as 3-4. [25, (25, 31, 37, 39), (43, 48, 52, 57) sts].

23: work in patt.

25: work in patt to last 2, k2tog. [24, (24, 30, 36, 38), (42, 47, 51, 56) sts].

27-46: as 23-26. [19, (19, 25, 31, 33), (37, 42, 46, 51) sts].

Work 18, (18, 18, 26, 26), (26, 34, 34, 34) mor e rows in patt. Set sts aside on st holder or scrap yarn to work Right Front.

Right Front:

You will now work the 36 (36, 42, 48, 50) (54, 59, 63, 68) sts next to the left front to shape the Right Front. Begin with RS facing.

1 (RS): ssk, work in patt to end of row. Turn. [35, (35, 41, 47, 49), (53, 58, 62, 67) sts].

2 and all WS rows: purl, slipping sts according to patt.

3-22: as 1-2. [25, (25, 31, 37, 39), (43, 48, 52, 57) sts ].

23: work in patt.

25: ssk, work in patt to end of row. [24, (24, 30, 36, 38), (42, 47, 51, 56) sts ].

27-46: as 23-26. [19, (19, 25, 31, 33), (37, 42, 46, 51) sts].

Work 18, (18, 18, 26, 26), (26, 34, 34, 34) more rows in patt. Set sts aside on st holder or scrap yarn to work Back.

Back:

You will now work the 73, (73, 85, 97, 101), (109, 119, 127, 137) st s set aside for the back.

Begin with RS facing, work 58 (58, 58, 66, 66) (66, 74, 74, 74) rows in patt.

On the next row, you will BO the center 30 sts at back of neck and work 5 more rows on either side to shape the back neckline.

Left Back:

1 (RS): 20 (20, 26, 32, 34) (38, 43, 47, 52) sts in patt, k2tog, BO next 30 sts, ssk, work in patt to end of row. Turn.

Work back and forth across the next 21 (21, 27, 33, 35) (39, 44, 48, 53) sts.

2 and all WS rows: purl, slipping sts according to patt.

3: ssk, work in patt to end of row. [20, (20, 26, 32, 34), (38, 43, 47, 52) sts].

5: as 3. [19, (19, 25, 31, 33), (37, 42, 46, 51) sts].

Set sts aside on st holder or scrap yarn to work the right back.

Right Back:

Begin with WS facing you. You have already worked row 1.

2 and all WS rows: purl, slipping sts according to patt.

3: work in patt to last 2, k2tog. [20, (20, 26, 32, 34), (38, 43, 47, 52) st s].

5: as 3. [19, (19, 25, 31, 33), (37, 42, 46, 51) sts].

Shoulder Join:

Once all front and back pieces are completed, arrange the corresponding shoulder sts and work a three needle bind off with the wrong sides facing to join the left back to the left front and the right back to the right front

Arm Openings:

You will now pick up sts around the arm opening to work the armband.

Using size 6 needles, with RS facing and beg at underarm, pick up 10 (18, 16, 12, 18) (18, 18, 18, 20) sts along underarm, pick up 48 (48, 48, 54, 54) (54, 60, 60, 60) sts along armhole opening to top of shoulder, [this is about 2 sts per every 3 rows], and pick up 48 (48, 48, 54, 54) (54, 60, 60, 60) sts along opposite side of armhole to underarm. [106, (114, 112, 120, 126), (126, 138, 138, 140) sts].

Work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib stitch. Bind off using the tubular bind off method. Repeat for second arm opening.

Neckline:

You will now pick up sts around the neckline to work the neckband.

Using size 6 needles, with RS facing you and beginning at right side of back neckline, pick up 43 sts across back neckline, pick up 48 (48, 48, 54, 54) (54, 60, 60, 60) along side of neckline to center front, pick up 1 st at center front, PM, pick up 48 (48, 48, 54, 54) (54, 60, 60, 60) along opposite side of neckline to the back. PM to denote beg/end of rounds. [140, (140, 140, 152, 152), (152, 164, 164, 164) sts].

1: [p1, k1] to end of rd.

2: [p1, k1] to 2 before M, CDD removing M as needed, PM a fter CDD, k1, [p1, k1] to end of rd.

3: [p1, k1] to 3 before M, p1, k2, SM, k1, [p1, k1] to end of rd.

4: [p1, k1] to 3 before M, p1, CDD removing M as needed, PM after CDD, [p1, k1] to end of rd.

Rep rounds 1-4 three more times. BO using tubular bind off method.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends. Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry.

For questions, please email support@originallylovely.com

I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely and @lionbrandyarn on Instagram!

Looking for other warm weather knitting patterns? Check out some of my favorites: the Aria Sweater, the Celia Sweater, and the Natte Pullover!