October Sweater Knitting Pattern
Introducing: the October Sweater! A simple, top-down, raglan style knitting pattern!
The October Sweater is a perfectly simple, top down, raglan style knitting pattern worked in the round. Simple shaping at the neckline, a relaxed fit, and gorgeous tweed yarn combine together to create a sweater that will certainly become a wardrobe classic.
This sweater is worked in stockinette stitch with simple rib stitch detailing at the hem, cuffs, and neckband. The October Sweater is unisex and available in 9 sizes. Its the perfect, simple, no nonsense raglan sweater you’ve been looking for!
Available as a free pattern, a printable PDF on Ravelry and Etsy, and as a kit with Lion Brand Yarn. Scroll down to access the free knitting pattern or continue reading to learn a bit about the design and some pointers to help you out!
**please note, some links may be affiliate links which will allow me to make a small commission on products purchased through my referral. This does not influence my opinion or the price of the item that you are purchasing in any way.
The Design
The October Sweater knitting pattern is constructed using the ever popular top down, raglan style technique. Many knitters love this technique because you can try it on as you go! If you’ve never done this before, you can simple slip your stitches onto a longer circular needle or a piece of scrap yarn and put it on! This will give you an idea of what the sweater will look like as you knit. Check out this post for tips on trying it on.
Out of all the top down raglan style sweaters patterns out there, my biggest criticism about them is the neckline. I think that necklines can truly make or break a handmade sweater. The neckline on the October Sweater is shaped by increasing on either side before you join to work in the round. This makes it both comfortable and aesthetically pleasing!
This sweater is the go-to sweater knitting pattern of my dreams. Truly, I wish I would have been able to find something like this when I started knitting.
Size and Fit
As I mentioned earlier, this sweater is unisex. Because of this, there is very minimal shaping, almost like a sweatshirt. The body is designed to be worn with 6-10″ of positive ease for a cozy, relaxed fit. The sleeves are also slightly relaxed but not too loose where they would be uncomfortable under a jacket or coat. Just that nice, slightly loose, comfortable fit.
If you prefer your sweaters to be a bit more fitted, choose a size with less ease! If you prefer your sweaters oversize, choose a size with more ease! I designed this sweater to work for a wide range of sizes, as you size up or down based on the bust measurement, the neckline and sleeves will not become too tight or too loose. I frequently see patterns size necklines and sleeves poorly, just because a larger size might gain 10″ across the bust does not mean it needs to gain 10″ at the neckline!
I’m getting ready to cast on another sample for my husband. Once I finish, I’ll update this post with more photos to showcase this sweater on a man!
Yarn and Materials
The yarn that I chose for this sweater is Lion Brand Re-Tweed. If you are interested in using the same yarn I used, you may want to check out the kit. The kit is based off the price of the yarn and contains all the yarn needed to make the sweater in your chosen size, optional needles, and a free printable PDF of the pattern!
I have always been obsessed with the tweed, textured look of this yarn. I also used this yarn on the Quinn Pullover if you want to check out that pattern!
I will note, Re-Tweed is a bit rustic and some might find it itchy. I am quite sensitive to itch and this yarn doesn’t bother me but I do want to point that out. I wouldn’t use this yarn for babies or anyone who hates more rustic wools or wool blends.
I have linked some great yarn substitutions below if you want to check them out! This sweater is knit using worsted weight yarn so the options for substitutions are almost endless!
Yarn Substitutions:
- Twill from KnitPicks: This is a great 100% merino wool option if you are looking to make a wool sweater but want one that isn’t rustic at all. It is very soft and luxurious! This yarn has a pretty good twist to it so the stitches will look really crisp and with great definition.
- Preciosa Tonal Worsted from KnitPicks: This yarn is an amazingly soft, 100% merino wool single ply. Quite possible one of my favorites out there. I haven’t made myself anything out of this yarn but I knit my husband a color work sweater with it a few years ago. I will note, since this yarn is single ply it is a bit delicate. This adds to the appeal for me but I wouldn’t use this yarn to make a gift unless the recipient knew how to care for wool and be gentle with the item.
- Comfy Worsted and Comfy Color Mist from KnitPicks: I love this yarn because its a luxurious cotton option that isn’t too heavy. I will note, this yarn is definitely on the lighter side of worsted so I’m not sure how it will work up on the size 9 needles used for this sweater, I think it will probably depend on your technique. That being said, I think this yarn would be a really nice option for someone who likes the luxury of natural fibers but doesn’t love wool.
- Mako Cotton from LB Collection: This yarn is sold out in most colors but check back because they may be restocked. It always shocks me that this yarn is cotton because its so light and fluffy!
- Chainette from LB Collection: This yarn is made a lofty, fluffy yarn made using baby alpaca! Definitely use this yarn if you want a fluffy but lightweight sweater.
- Cotton Jeans LB Collection: Cotton Jeans is listed as a category 3 but I think it works better as a worsted weight. I love the way this yarn feels, it’s cooling and honestly feels like a worn pair of jeans. This yarn would give a really nice vintage looking sweater.
- Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand: Again, this yarn is listed as a category 3 but I disagree. This yarn is a great, easy care, cotton blend! I’ve used this in projects such as the Piper Sweater and the Simple Summer Tank and I always come back to it!
Always remember to gauge swatch especially when substituting yarn in a pattern! Small changes in gauge can lead to large changes in the finished garment so assure a proper fit with the proper gauge!
October Sweater: Top Down Raglan Style Sweater Knitting Pattern
© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2022
This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.
The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.
Shop the kit with Lion Brand Yarn HERE
To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the October Sweater on Ravelry, CLICK HERE
To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the October Sweater on Etsy, CLICK HERE
Skill Level
Easy+
In this knitting pattern, you will need to know how to knit flat and in-the-round, increase using M1L and M1R, and be comfortable with simple shaping using increasing and decreases. You will also need to pick up stitches and feel confident following written patterns.
Materials
4, (4, 5, 5, 5), (6, 6, 6, 7) skeins / 808, (808, 1010, 1010, 1010), (1212, 1212, 1212, 1414) yards Lion Brand ReTweed Yarn (shown in Hay)
Size US 9 (5.5 mm) 32” circular knitting needles (for body of sweater)
Size US 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle for magic loop, double pointed needles, or small circular needle (for sleeves)
Size US 7 (4.5 mm) 32” circular knitting needles (for hemline)
Size US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles or small circular needle (for sleeve cuffs and neckline)
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends
Notes
This raglan style knitting pattern is worked from the top, down. After the first few rounds are worked flat to shape the front neckline, this sweater will be worked in the round.
Finished Dimensions
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X | |
| Bust/Chest Circumference | 38 | 42 | 46 | 50 | 54 | 58 | 62 | 66 | 70 |
| Finished Length | 22 | 22 | 22 | 23 | 23 | 23 | 24 | 24 | 24 |
XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.
Help Choosing Size
This raglan style sweater is designed to be worn with 6-10” of positive ease at the bust. Model is 6” tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size small with 9” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 6-10” larger than your corresponding bust measurement.
Gauge
15 stitches and 22 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch with larger needles
Abbreviations
This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology.
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
K = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right leaning single decrease)
M = stitch marker
M1L = make 1 left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.
M1R = make 1 right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.
P = purl
PM = place stitch marker
RS = right side
sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise with the working yarn in back
SM = slip stitch marker
Ssk = slip slip knit (left leaning single decrease)
st = stitch
Stst = stockinette stitch
WS = wrong side
[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
October Sweater Knitting Pattern
With size 9 needles, cast On 67 (70, 70, 73, 73) (76, 76, 79, 79) stitches.
Set-Up Row: p2, PM, p3, PM, p11 (12, 12, 13, 13) (14, 14, 15, 15), PM, p3, PM, p29 (30, 30, 31, 31) (32, 32, 33, 33), PM, p3, PM, p11 (12, 12, 13, 13) (14, 14, 15, 15), PM, p3, PM, p2.
Row 1 (RS): k1, M1L, [k to M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L] 4x, k to last st, M1R, k1. [77, (80, 80, 83, 83), (86, 86, 89, 89) sts].
Row 2 (WS): purl, slipping Ms as you pass.
Repeat rows 1-2 five more times. Then, repeat row 1 once more. [137, (140, 140, 143, 143), (146, 146, 149, 149) sts].
Neckline Join:
You will now join the neckline and begin working in the round.
Cast on 11 (12, 12, 13, 13) (14, 14, 15, 15) at the end of the row you just worked. Do not turn, with RS facing you and careful not to twist your work, join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of each rd. [148, (152, 152, 156, 156), (160, 160, 164, 164) sts].
Round 1: knit, slipping Ms as you pass.
2: [k to M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L] 4x, k to end of rd. [156, (160, 160, 164, 164), (168, 168, 172, 172) sts].
Repeat rounds 1-2 5 (4, 4, 2, 2) (3, 4, 5, 9) more times. [196, (192, 192, 180, 180), (192, 200, 212, 244) sts total].
3: knit, slipping Ms as you pass.
4: [k to M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, k to next M, SM, k3, SM, M1L] 2x, k to end of round. [200, (196, 196, 184, 184), (196, 204, 216, 248) sts total].
5: knit, slipping Ms as you pass.
6: [k to M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L] 4x, k to end of rd. [208, 204, 204, 192, 192), (204, 212, 224, 256) sts total].
Repeat rounds 3-6 zero (2, 4, 6, 8) (9, 10, 11, 11) more times. [208 (228, 252, 264, 288), (312, 332, 356, 388) sts total].
Work even (knitting every round) until piece measures 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) (11.5, 12.5, 13.5, 15)” from original CO edge (back of neck). Depending on your size, this may be anywhere from a handful of rounds to 1-2 rounds more.
Separate for Body:
You will now separate separate the sleeves from the body of the sweater and begin working the body in the round.
Next round: removing Ms as you pass, k to 1st M, remove M, k3, remove M, place next 39 (42, 46, 47, 51) (56, 60, 65, 73) sts on st holder or scrap yarn, CO 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, k next 65 (72, 80, 85, 93) (100, 106, 113, 121) sts, place next 39 (42, 46, 47, 51) (56, 60, 65, 73) sts onto st holder or scrap yarn, CO 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) (8, 10, 10, 10) sts. Continue knitting body sts to join in round. PM to denote beg/end of each round.
You now have your body sts joined in the round and your sleeve sts on scrap yarn. [142 (156, 172, 186, 202) (216, 232, 246, 262) sts total].
Body:
Work the body sts even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 11.5 (11, 10.5, 11, 10.5) (9.5, 9.5, 8.5, 7)” from underarm CO sts. You may work more or less at this point to make your sweater longer/shorter.
On the next round, switch to size 7 needles. Knit one more round. Then, work 2” in [k1, p1] rib stitch. BO using tubular bind off method or bind off method of choice.
Sleeves:
Using double pointed needles or circular needle of choice for small circumference, slip the 39 (42, 46, 47, 51) (56, 60, 65, 73) sts set aside for one sleeve onto your needle. At the underarm, pick up, 8 (8, 8, 10, 10) (10, 12, 12, 12) sts total. PM after the first 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) (5, 6, 6, 6) sts picked up. This M will denote beg/end of each round. [47, (50, 54, 57, 61), (66, 72, 77, 85) sts total].
Round 1: knit.
Decrease Round: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. [45, (48, 52, 55, 59), (64, 70, 75, 83) sts total].
Continue knitting stockinette stitch in the round decreasing every 24 (18, 12, 10, 9) (6, 5, 4, 4)th round 3 (4, 6, 7, 8) (11, 13, 15, 18) times until you have 41 (42, 42, 43, 45) (44, 46, 47, 49) sts remaining.
Then, continue working in pattern until your sleeve measures 13” from underarm sts. You may work more/less at this point to make your sleeves longer/shorter.
On the next round, switch to size 7 needles.
Sizes XS, L, XL, 4X, 5X: k2tog, knit to end of round.
Sizes S, M, 2X, 3X: Knit one more round.
Then, work 2” in [k1, p1] rib stitch. BO using tubular bind off method or bind off method of choice.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Neckline:
Using size 7 needles and beginning at right side of back left raglan, pick up and knit: 2 sts at the raglan, 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) (15, 15, 16, 16) across left sleeve, 2 sts at the neck raglan, 9 sts down left side of neckline, 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) (15, 15, 16, 16) sts across front of neck, 9 sts up right side of neckline, 2 sts at the next raglan, 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) (15, 15, 16, 16) sts across right sleeve, 2 sts at final raglan, and 30 (31, 31, 32, 32) (33, 33, 34, 34) sts across back.
Join to work in round. PM to denote beg/end of each round.
Work 2.5” in [k1, p1] rib stitch. Bind off loosely. Fold neckband in and seam to inner edge to create a foldover neckband.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends to secure.
Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry.
Enjoy!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you are looking for more top down raglan style knitting patterns, check out the Sunday Morning Rib Stitch Sweater, the Rainbow Stripe Sweater, or the Polo Sweater!
This is a gorgeous sweater and it’s fun to knit! I do have one quick question. I am at the point of joining my neckline, but I’m unsure where to place a marker to note the beginning of the round. I’m sure it’s obvious, but I’m dealing with “fog brain” and thought I’d ask instead of messing up and having to start over. Thank you again for yet another wonderful pattern!
Hi Heather! So glad you are liking the pattern! You can just simple place the marker right where it says PM which will be right as you join in the round. This marker is just to help you count your increase rows and stay on track (so that you don’t continue increasing when you should switch to a ‘knit’ row, or continue knitting in the round when you should increase). When you separate the yoke and begin working only the body, the beg/end will move. Hope that helps! Be sure to let me know if you have any more questions 🙂
Hey! Thank you for this amazing pattern because it seems so easy and fun and I can’t wait to start it! I just had a little question in mind. Before you join for the neckline, you’ve worked those few rows flat. So I was wondering if those rows could be worked in the round as well? Or if they cannot, do I have to seam that up later? (I don’t know if this question makes proper sense :p but I hope you answer it 🙂 <3 )
Hi! So unfortunately, to get a nicely shaped neckline that is lower in the front, you must knit those flat before working in the round! There is really no shortcut to making the neckline this way! At the end, you will pick up stitches around the neckline to make a neckband so not necessarily seaming but a little extra work. There are a lot of sweaters where the neckband is worked right into it but trust me, you’ll like this way so much better that you won’t mind the extra couple steps 🙂
I purchased the kit for October Sweater. I am having a problem understanding the first 2 rows. I did rows 1 & 2. Ready to repeat row 1. This is where I get confused. Should I be making the increases before and after knitting k3, always having 3 stitches between markers.
I am making size larger. I do have 83 stitches after completing row l.
Having trouble wrapping my old brain around repeating rows 1 & 2 five times more.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Hi Betty! Thanks so much for reaching out! So yes, you will always have 3 stitches between the markers, these are your raglan stitches. You will work your increases on the outside of these markers that border the raglans. This is done so that the markers always mark where the raglans are whereas if you increased inside the markers, they would slowly move their way further and further from the raglans and it would be a bit more work to pay attention to! Hope that makes sense. I am sure you’ll be able to visualize it a bit more as you work a few more rounds! Let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
Hi Kaitlin, thank you for your quick response. I have another question regarding increases. Do I also increase after the first stitch and before the last stitch, making a 10 stitch increase with row 2 , repeating 5 times.
Thank you for your patience. I have made top down, in the round sweaters in the past. I am excited to be able to knit a much better fitting neckline!
Yes, correct! At the very beginning when shaping the neckline you’ll also increase after the first and before the last stitch. So while you are working the neckline you will be increasing 10 stitches per round. After you join the neckline, you’ll only be increasing according to the raglans (8 or 4 sts per round depending on the size and round number).
I’m excited for you to knit a better fitting neckline too! I think you’ll love it 🙂 Happy Knitting!
Katlin, thank you so much for responding so quickly. It is greatly appreciated.
Hi,
Thanks for creating the pattern! It’s very pretty. Another question on the neckline join. So, following the instructions available on the website:
Row 1 (RS): k1, M1L, [k to M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L] 4x, k to last st, M1R, k1. [77, (80, 80, 83, 83), (86, 86, 89, 89) sts].
Row 2 (WS): purl, slipping Ms as you pass.
Repeat rows 1-2 five more times. Then, repeat row 1 once more. [137, (140, 140, 143, 143), (146, 146, 149, 149) sts].
So, row 1 is completed 7 times, and row 2 is completed 6 times. This has you ending on a WS row after you cast on the extra stitches to join in the round. Should I just purl an extra row prior to joining in the round? I do not want to purl an entire sweater.
Thank you!!
Hi Erin! You won’t have to purl the entire sweater, don’t worry! I wouldn’t want to do that either 🙂
So after you repeat row 1 a final time, you do not turn your work. You simply cast on the stitches and then begin working along the other side of the row (what would be the end of the row if you turned the piece) to begin working in the round! If you keep reading underneath the Neckline Join section, this is explained a bit further. It might be confusing at first but it will totally make sense after you do it.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Love this pattern! I’m working on the sleeves, and I have a question:
Round 2 is decrease round, and I’ve completed that! Should I now decrease after every 12 rounds starting on round 12, or 12 rounds after round 2?
In other words: should I decrease on round 12, or 14?
Hi Briana! So for this size (size M), You will be decreasing every 12th round after round 2. So decreasing on the second round, the 14th round, the 26th round, and so on… Hope that helps!
Hi,
I am having a problem with row 1. I had several other people at my knitting group take a look and they think there may be an error . Please help.
The section (k to M, M1R, SM,k3,SM,M1L). Can you offer some guif=dance?
Thanks
Hi Nancy, there is no error! I’ve even looked again. What is it about this row that is throwing you off?
I’ll explain it a bit more in hopes I can clarify it for you. Basically, row 1 and 2 are what will be repeated to shape the front neckline. In row 1 ‘k to m’ is only one stitch that is knit before the marker. So, as noted, you knit to this marker, then make one right, slip the marker, knit 3 (these will be the ‘raglans’), slip the next marker, and then make one left. It might seem odd to work the M1R and M1L before and after the M’s, respectively, but this is so that the M’s are continuously noting the location of the raglans. Otherwise, they markers would slowly move further away from the raglans as you worked and wouldn’t be as effective at ‘marking’ the stitches. The reason this part is repeated 4 times is because there are 4 raglans. In this section, you are also increasing at the very beginning and end of each row to shape the neckline.
Hope that helps. Please be sure to let me know if you still have questions. I’d love to hear what it is about the row that is confusing! Happy Knitting 🙂
Thanks for this lovely pattern that really makes it seem less overwhelming for a beginner who’s almost giving up on ever finding a way to knit a sweater that doesn’t involve mastering complex skills!! Just a quick question: what’s your recommended way to cast on?
So glad you like it! Any cast on method will work but I love the backwards loop cast on method here because it is super fast and isn’t bulky at all. Some knitters like a more substantial cast on like the long tail cast on so that its a bit easier to pick up the stitches if that is something you find difficult. Hope that helps!
I am wondering if it’s possible to use 16″ circulars to finish the neckline ribbing, or must I use magic loop again there as well?
Thanks!! I am really loving this pattern!
Hi Sharon! Definitely feel free to use a 16″ circular if you prefer! This will work great 🙂
Hi Kaitlin! Thanks so much for this pattern – it’s my first sweater and I’m loving it!
I do have one question – after placing the sleeve stitches onto a holder and casting on the extra underarm stitches, where is the new BOR? Is it directly after the second set of 6 CO stitches?
Thanks!
Hi Bailey! Yes, correct. This will be the new beginning of round! You can place the marker here just to mentally know where the beg/end of each round is as you work but if you prefer to work without a stitch marker, you can leave it out! It’s not super necessary since its just worked straight in the round at this point. Then when you get to the bottom and begin working the ribbing, just start directly down from the underarm when you get to that point. Hope that helps!
When you give the gauge of four inches does that mean 4 inches each way? Mine is 4 inches up the long side of 22 stirches but only 3.5 across the 15 side.
Yes, both directions! Although, definitely keep in mind that stitch gauge is always more important! If you can only get one to be exact, make it be the stitch gauge! Width cannot be modified as you knit but length can be modified in the pattern when sections say something like “knit until piece measures X inches…” Since 15 stitches is only measuring 3.5″, you will need to go up a needle size and see how your gauge looks then!
Thank you!!!
I’m so glad to see that you are fashioning this sweater for a man. This comfortable easy fitting top-down sweater caught my eye and would love to make it for my son. Do you have any tips on changes I should make? I think he would be a large in this sweater.
Hi! So sweet of you to make this for your son 🙂 you shouldn’t have to make any changes except perhaps length if he is taller, this can easily be customized by just knitting more or less on the sleeves and body. Otherwise, make sure you choose a size that has similar ease to a sweater that already fits him well! This will assure the fit is what he is hoping for
I have never tried a sweater before but I have always wanted to. I have 29” circular needles – is that close enough or do I need the 32” ones?
29″ will work for most of it! Your stitches might just be a bit more squished on the needles, which is totally fine! You’ll likely want a longer needle or double pointed needles for the sleeves though, 29″ is a bit short for the magic loop technique!
I’m loving this pattern so far! I’m separating the vody from the sleeves but I can’t seem to figure out where to put the CO 6 stitches? I placed them on my left needle but then do I count them in the next set of knitted stitches? I tried that and I had a weird gap on my right needle.
Hi! You can cast the stitches onto your right needle, and then simply continue working the stitches on your left needle to join in the round. The gap you mention won’t be there this way! These cast on stitches will shape the underarm. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Kaitlin
For October top down raglan; if I’d like to have the neck not be so low, i.e., a smaller neck opening / neck band, how would I do this? I’m interested in making the small. Would one way be too knit the pattern as is and add more rows to the neck back with decreases. This would make a ‘taller’ neck band. Folder over it may not look right though… Thanks Coco
Modifying a pattern, especially a top down raglan, is a bit tough because it hasn’t been tested or edited with modifications! So it’s hard to say for certain. As a policy we don’t offer help modifying patterns, since we can’t assure accuracy and quality!
Since it a top down, working more decreases wouldn’t work because there aren’t decreases, and changing the stitch count would then throw off all of the other math. My best recommendation would be to work the neckband using a smaller needle size, but this might cause some neckline puckering and won’t have the smooth, curved look.
Sorry we can’t be of more help. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
I am making the 4xl sweater (thank you so much for going up this big. Yours was the only pattern I found that did and I love the sweater) and I am working on the sleeves. It says to decrease every 4th round 15 times until you have 45 st remaining. I was wondering how many stitches to decrease every 4 rounds to form the sleeves correctly. The way it sounds to me is to decrease 15 stitches every 4 rounds. Is this correct?
Hi Felicity! I am so glad you are loving the pattern! You will do the decrease round every 4th round a total of 15 times. The decrease round is [k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk] so you will decrease 2 stitches every decrease round. That way, you are gradually decreasing to the size of your wrist rather than doing drastic decreases here and there. Does this make sense? Let me know if you have any follow up questions! (:
Hello! I have a clarifying question, I’ve joined the neckline in the round and am several rows beyond that now and in the back of the neckline where the 12 stitches are cast on the neckline dips down. When I go back and knit the collar onto that, that will smooth out because of the licked up stitches and that’s what will create the slope and shape to the neckline correct? I wish I could attach a picture to make sure what I’m saying (and doing) makes sense.
Hi Kelsey! If you want to send a photo to us, you can send it to our support email! Then we can take a better look at it (:
Hi, would it be difficult to make this sweater longer? More of a tunic length?
Hi Wen! Thanks for reaching out! As a policy we don’t offer help modifying patterns since we can’t assure accuracy and quality, especially since modifications won’t go through the besting process. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Happy knitting!!
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern. I am about to start. May I ask: is the gauge swatch taken fore or after blocking? I get slightly different counts after blocking and was wondering if your reference is to be measured after blocking? Many thanks 🙂
Hi Anila! The measurements for gauge are after the swatch is blocked! It wouldn’t be completely out of the ordinary if your gauge was a bit off – you will just want to make some adjustments so you are getting the fit you want (:
Hello, I am working on a size Small. I’m at the separating the body part and I am running into an issue. Or maybe I’m just crazy. After separating the first sleeve, it says to knit 72 stitches. But that puts me in the middle of the other sleeve? Did I do something wrong? I am unsure. Also I don’t understand putting a new marker for the BOR? Please help, thank you!
Hi! It sounds like you might be separating the stitches at the wrong point here. You are putting the sleeve stitches aside onto stitch holders to come back and work later. At the same time, you’ll be joining the body stitches to knit in the round. Additionally, moving the BOR M places it at the underarm, so that when you switch to ribbing its a bit more camouflaged. Hope that helps!
Hi Kaitlin! I am a little stuck on the first step of the neckline. I have the 13sts and I’m ready to join. What I’m stuck on is not turning the work and working in the round. Once joined, my working yarn is on the opposite side. Does this mean I will be working in the opposite direction to keep the RS in front? Is that the process for the rest the neckline steps? Thanks!
Hi! You’ll start knitting what was the beginning of the row you just worked. So instead of turning, you just begin knitting those stitches on the other end and that joins it in the round. Hope this helps!