Pocket Coatigan Knitting Pattern
Have you ever heard the term coatigan? For those of you that haven’t, it is a cross between a coat and a cardigan — a coatigan! Here in Minnesota, it could also be known as the best spring sweater ever!
This sweater is designed using Buttercream Angel Hair Yarn [linked here]. This affordable acrylic-wool blend is amazingly soft with the warmth and durability of wool.
The pockets on this sweater are worked into the pattern so when you are finished, you just need to fold them and seam the sidess They also work as the perfect hand warmers!
The shape of this sweater is made to flatter many body types. Although this sweater is a coat and made with bulkier yarn, the curves of the pockets and neckline are slimming.
Even though I generally wear a small or medium, I knit this sample in a size large because I wanted to be sure I could slide it over long sleeve shirts and flannels. My mom who generally wears a large top has also tried this sample on and it looks just as good (if not better) on her!
The Angle Hair yarn has been popular and might be sold out where you are so I have linked another recommended yarn with the same gauge, yardage, and fiber in the ad below!
CLICK HERE to get the ad-free, printable pattern PDF
This flattering pocket coat-style cardigan is worked from the bottom, up. Arms and body are initially worked separately and then joined to form the shoulders.
Skill Level: Intermediate
7, (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins/ [840, (960, 1080, 1200, 1320) yards] – Buttercream Angel Hair Yarn from Joann Fabrics (Shown in color Black and White)
Size US 10.5 (6.5 mm) 36” (or longer) circular knitting needle.
Size US 10.5 (6.5 mm) double pointed needles or circular needle for magic loop technique.
Size US 11 (8.0 mm) 36” (or longer) circular knitting needle.
4 Stitch Markers
13 stitches and 18 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
S, (M, L, XL, 2X)
Finished Body Circumference: 38, (42, 46, 50, 55)”
Finished Length armhole to cast off edge: 21, (21.5, 22, 22, 22)”
Finished Sleeve Length (with a 2“ cuff): 19, (20.25, 21.25, 21.25, 21.25)”
This pattern will be worked seamlessly from the bottom, up. First, the body and sleeves will be worked separately. Then, you will join the sleeves and body to work the shoulders. Sleeves will be worked in the round so use either double pointed needles or a long circular needle for magic loop technique.
Beg = beginning
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
Cont = continue
Dec = decrease
K = knit
K2tog = knit 2 together
M1R = make one right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.
M1L = make one left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.
P = purl
P2tog = purl 2 together
P2tbl =purl 2 through the back loop. Slip next two stitches knit-wise one at a time. Slip the two slipped stitches back to the left needle purl-wise. Insert right needle from the back first through the second stitch and then through the first stitch. Bring the tip of the needle through the front and purl these stitches together.
PM = place marker
SM = slip marker
Ssk = slip slip knit
St st = stockinette stitch
With 36” size 10.5 needles, cast on 118, (130, 144, 156, 174) sts.
Row 1: sl1, k1, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, k2.
2: sl1 p-wise, purl across.
Repeat rows 1-2 23, times and then row 1 once more. 168, (180, 194, 206, 224) sts total.
3: BO 25 sts in purl, purl across.
4: BO 25 sts in knit, knit across. [118, (130, 144, 156, 174) sts].
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 21, (21.5, 22, 22, 22)” from cast on edge.
Set piece aside to begin working arms.
Cast on 27, (29, 32, 37, 43) sts, join to work in round. PM to denote beginning/end of rounds.
5 and all inc. rows: k1, M1R, k to end of round.
Repeat rows 1-5 18, (19, 20, 20, 20) times, 46, (49, 53, 58, 64) sts total.
Next round: Bind off 3, (3, 3, 5, 5) sts, k to end of round. Slip sts onto stitch holder.
Cast on 27, (29, 32, 37, 43) sts, join to work in round. PM to denote beginning/end of rounds.
5 and all inc. rows: k to last stitch, M1L, k1.
Repeat rows 1-5 18, (19, 20, 20, 20) times 46, (49, 53, 58, 64) sts total.
Next round: knit to last 3, (3, 3, 5, 5) sts, bind off last 3, (3, 3, 5, 5) sts. *Note: You will need to cast off last st with the first st of next round.
Shoulders and Neck:
Returning to body piece to join arms and body
Body Piece row 1: sl1, k31, (35, 34, 38, 42), BO 3, (3, 3, 5, 5) sts, k48, (52, 68, 68, 82), BO 3, (3, 3, 5, 5) sts, k32, (36, 35, 39, 43).
2: sl1, p to first BO st, PM, p sts for left arm, PM, p sts from body to next BO st, PM, p sts for right arm, PM, p remaining body sts. Body and arms are now joined together and will be worked as one piece.
3: sl1, knit across.
4: sl1 p-wise, purl across.
5-6: as 3-4.
7: sl1, k1, ssk, *k to 3 before M, k2tog, k1, SM, k1, ssk. Rep from * 3 more times, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
9: sl1, *k to 3 before M, k2tog, k1, SM, k1, ssk. Rep from * 3 more times, k to end of row.
Repeat rows 7-10 6, (6, 7, 7, 8) more times, 86, (104, 94, 112, 124) sts total.
11: as row 7.
12: sl1, *p to 3 before M, p2tbl, k1, SM, k1, p2tog. Rep from * 3 more times, p to end of row.
Repeat 11-12 1, (2, 1, 2, 2) more times. 50, (50, 58, 58, 70) sts total.
13 (size 2X only): as row 7.
Fold cast off edge of pocket up to match front of cardigan, seam.
Count 25 stitches over from the front inside edge of the cardigan, place a removable stitch marker into this row. Fold cast on edge of pocket up to lay flat on front of cardigan. Seam this side of the pocket into the 25th row of stitches as marked.
With size 11 needles, pick up sts into each selvage st along right front (including those seamed for the pocket), into each stitch at back of neck, and into each selvage sts down left front.
2: sl1, k1, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Repeat 1-2 6 more times.
Bind off in purl.
Seam bottom of armhole opening closed, weave in all ends.
To block: Soak in warm water, gently towel off excess water and lay flat to dry.
Be sure to fold when not wearing. The weight of this sweater could pull down and stretch the shoulders if hung on a hanger.
CLICK HERE to get the ad-free, printable PDF
Let me know if you have any questions or need help!
With Love, Kaitlin
Hi, I’m looking at this pattern and having trouble understanding how the sleeves are joined to the main body section. Could you elaborate in a little more detail as to how the sleeves are knitted on in the shoulder and neck section body pice row 1 and row 2….. Love this cardigan!!! I have this yarn in my stash but didn’t know what to do with it until now! Thanks
Hi Kristen! So row 1 of the body section is only worked with the body piece and you are setting up the stitches to be joined with the arms. You will knit the first number of stitches (these will be the stitches for the right front), the stitches you cast off will be for the underarm, the next set of stitches will be for the back, the second cast off stitches will be for the other underarm, and finally the last set of stitches will be for the left front.
On row 2, you will join the body and the arms together. So you will knit the first stitches for the left front to the point you first cast off, then you will knit the stitches for the left sleeve to join these into the same piece of work. Knit them so that the stitches cast off for the underarm are touching. Next, knit the stitches for the back to the point of the next cast of sts. Join the right arm by knitting it into the same row as done for the left arm. Finally work the stitches for the right front. You will now have one piece of work (Imagine the length of this work as one piece wrapped around your shoulders right at your armpits). From this piece you will use decreases to shape the shoulders and the neckline.
I hope that this helps explain it a bit. I think if you just carefully follow along you should be able to see how it works, its just a bit hard to visualize!
Let me know if you have any more questions -Kaitlin
I love this pattern! I have started to knit it and am to the point of joining in the arms to the body but I just for the love of me can’t figure it out! I read your reply above and still have no clue! I am a visual person so I don’t know if this is why. I just can’t figure out how to get all the stitches from the arms which I have knitted in the round on double points needles into a straight line????? To be part of the whole. Am I only supposed to join half and leave the rest on a holder????? Or do I just knit the cast of ones???? Also, I am on a purl row but it says to knit??? Is there anyway you could maybe do a graft or a video??? Thank so much!! Sorry to be so dumb!!! I am just really struggling with this part!
Hi Celine! I’ll see if I can put together a video this week, I have a sweater that might be ready to join arms and body then. In the meantime, I searched and found this video that might help you https://youtu.be/b_TW_nHqYrk
To begin joining, make sure that you are on a knit row for all pieces 🙂
I hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions!
Hi Celine. I am still confused by the join of the body & sleeves. I understand to knit the stitches on Row 1 and prep the set up to join. Row 2 reads: sl1, p to first BO st, PM, k sts for left arm, PM, k sts from body to next BO st, PM, k sts for right arm, PM, knit remaining body sts.
Row 2 should be a purl row. Why is the first part purled (I understand) but the remainder of the row (sleeves, back, & front) all knit stitches? This puts a wonky garter ridge on part of the beautiful design.
All the rest is stockinette – so does this garter ridge serve some purpose or is it just a typo – meaning the whole row is purled?
PS – fabulous design incorporating the pockets!!
Hi Celine, yes the whole row is purl! The entire sweater is worked in st.st. At that point, it means knit those stitches (but in the pattern which is stst). I see how that could be confusing I will change it!