Woman smiling at the camera with one arm lifted wearing the Seasons sweater, a size inclusive knitting pattern made using Originally Lovely Cria yarn. This stripe sweater has drop shoulders and a v neckline

Seasons Sweater Knitting Pattern

Introducing: the Seasons Sweater knitting pattern — a beautifully crafted, reverse stockinette stitch pullover.

Designed using Originally Lovely Cria yarn, the understated elegance of this sweater lies within the details. Faux slipped stitch seams, a thick neckband, and tailored shoulder shaping create a stunning contemporary sweater with timeless allure.

Seasons Sweater Knitting Pattern

© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2024

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.

Skill Level

Intermediate

In this pattern, you will need to know how to knit flat and in the round, increase, decrease, pick up stitches, and work german short rows.  

The Seasons Sweater is knit primarily using an inside-out construction technique which minimizes the need for purling.

Materials Needed to Knit This Sweater

  • Originally Lovely Cria Yarn – Main Color, shown in Vino
  • 4, (5, 6, 6), (7, 7, 8), (9, 9, 10) balls
  • approx 200 (230, 260, 290) (320, 350, 380) (410, 450, 480) grams
  • approx 440 (505, 570, 635) (700, 765, 830) (895, 980, 1050) yards
  • Originally Lovely Cria Yarn – Accent Color, shown in Ecru
  • 4, (5, 6, 6), (7, 7, 8), (9, 9, 10) balls
  • approx 200 (230, 260, 290) (320, 350, 380) (410, 450, 480) grams
  • approx 440 (505, 570, 635) (700, 765, 830) (895, 980, 1050) yards
  • Size US 7 (4.5 mm) 32″ or longer circular knitting needles (for body and sleeves)
  • Size US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles (optional, to work sleeves)
  • Size US 6 (4.0 mm) 32″ circular knitting needles (to work bottom hem and sleeve cuffs)
  • Size US 6 (4.0 mm) double pointed needles (optional, to work sleeve cuffs)
  • Size US 5 (3.75 mm) 24″ circular knitting needles (to work neckband)
  • Stitch Markers
  • Stitch holder or scrap yarn
  • Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4” in reverse stockinette stitch on size 7 needles worked both flat and in the round.

Notes on Gauge:  Originally Lovely Cria yarn has quite a bit of bounce and both the row gauge and stitch gauge change after being blocked.  Because of this, it is important to wet block and dry your gauge swatch to get an accurate measurement and assure a proper fit of your sweater. 

Please note: Always remember to gauge swatch especially when substituting yarn in a pattern! Small changes in gauge can lead to large changes in the finished garment so assure a proper fit with the proper gauge!

Choosing Yarn

For this sweater, it is recommended to use Originally Lovely Cria yarn. Cria is a beautiful, 100% baby alpaca yarn that creates a fabric with a delicate halo.

Although Cria is listed as a worsted weight yarn, if substituting for another fiber (such as merino), you may find it easier to meet gauge using a DK weight.

Cria yarn main image shown in the color Forest
Originally Lovely Cria Yarn

Cria is a luxurious yarn made from 100% baby alpaca, a unique fiber with special qualities.

Please note: Yarn weight and yardage requirements are estimates.  Using yarn of different fiber composition, ply, gauge, and any modifications will lead to differences in yarn usage. 

Construction Notes

This drop shoulder sweater is worked from the top, down.  First, you will work the back yoke.  Shoulder shaping will be knit using German Short Rows.  Once completed, you will set the back yoke aside and work the right and left yoke panels.  Then, you will join at the underarm and complete the V neckline.  Finally, you will join to work in the round to complete the body.  Sleeves and neckband will be worked by picking up and knitting stitches around the armhole opening and the neckline, respectively.  

Because most knitters prefer to work the knit stitch over the purl stitch, when we are working in the round, the sweater will be knit inside out with the wrong-side facing.  This means that the ‘Right Side’ will refer to the purl side of your work, and the ‘Wrong Side’ will refer to the knit side of your work.

Dimensions

Size:XXSXSSMLXL2X3X4X5X
Finished Bust/Chest Circumference 36.5″
92.5cm
40.5″
103cm
44.5″
113cm
48.5″
123cm
52.5″
133.5cm
56.5″
143.5cm
60.5″
153.5cm
64.5″
164cm
68.5″
174cm
72.5″
184cm
Finished Width18.25″
46.5cm
20.25″
51.5cm
22.25″
56.5cm
24.25″
61.5cm
26.25″
66.5cm
28.25″
72cm
30.25″
77cm
32.25″
82cm
34.25″
87cm
36.25″
92cm
Body Length (underarm to hem)16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
16.5″
42cm
Finished Total Length24.5″
62cm
25″
63.5cm
25.5″
65cm
26.25″
66.5cm
26.75″
68cm
27.25″
69cm
28″
71cm
28.5″
72.5cm
29″
73.5cm
29.75″
75.5cm
Armhold Depth6″
15cm
6.5″
16.5cm
7″
18cm
7.75″
19.5cm
8.25″
21cm
8.75″
22cm
9.5″
24cm
10″
25.5cm
10.5″
26.5cm
11.25″
28.5cm
Upper Arm Circumference13.5″
34.5cm
14.75″
37.5cm
15.5″
39.5cm
18.5″
47cm
19.5″
49.5cm
21.25″
54cm
22″
56cm
23.25″
59cm
24.5
62cm
25.5
64.5cm
Neckline Opening7.75″
19.5cm
7.75″
19.5cm
8″
20.5cm
820.5cm8.521.5cm8.521.5cm9″
23cm
9″
23cm
9.5″
24cm
9.5″
24cm
Shoulder Shaping 2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
2″
5cm
Sleeve Length18″
45.75cm
18″
45.75cm
18.5″
47cm
18.5″
47cm
18.5″
47cm
19″
48.5cm
19″
48.5cm
19″
48.5cm
19.75″
50cm
19.75″
50cm

Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis using the following format: XXS (XS, S, M) (L, XL, 2X) (3X, 4X, 5X). 

When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.  To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.  

Help Choosing Size

This sweater is designed to be worn with 8-10” of positive ease.  For best fit, choose a size that is closest to 8-10” larger than your corresponding bust measurement.  Model is wearing size S with 9” of positive ease at the bust.  

Abbreviations

  • This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology
  • AC = accent color
  • BO = bind off
  • CO = cast on
  • GSR = German Short Row
  • Gtog = knit two together or purl two together the paired stitch created from the German Short Row as though it were one stitch
  • K = knit
  • K2tog = knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
  • M = stitch marker
  • MC = main color
  • M1L = make one left.  Pick up the back between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.  
  • M1R = make one right.  Pick up the back between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.  
  • PM = place stitch marker
  • RM = remove marker
  • RS = right side, the right side of the work facing
  • sl1p = slip 1 stitch purlwise with the working yarn in back
  • sl1pwyif = slip one stitch purlwise with the working yarn in front
  • SM = slip stitch marker
  • Ssk = slip, slip, knit (left leaning decrease)
  • St = stitch
  • WS = wrong side, the wrong side of the work facing
  • wyib = working yarn in back
  • wyif = working yarn in front
  • [ ] = repeat the instructions inside the brackets as directed.  
  •  * = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

Knitting Pattern Instructions

Cast on 86 (96, 106, 116) (126, 136, 146) (156, 166, 176) sts in MC with size 7 needles using the long tail cast on method.

1 (WS):  purl.

2 (RS):  knit.  

3:  purl.

4:  k15 (20, 24, 29) (33, 38, 42) (47, 51, 56), PM, k56 (56, 58, 58) (60, 60, 62) (62, 64, 64), PM, k15 (20, 24, 29) (33, 38, 42) (47, 51, 56).  Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later.  

Short Row Shaping

In this section, you will be working German Short Rows to shape the back yoke.  For help knitting German Short Rows, check out this tutorial.

5 (WS):  With purl side facing, slip 15 (20, 24, 29) (33, 38, 42) (47, 51, 56) sts p-wise, SM.  With AC, k56 (56, 58, 58) (60, 60, 62) (62, 64, 64) sts to next M, SM, k1, turn.

6 (RS):  GSR, p to 2nd M, SM, p1, turn.  

7:  GSR using AC, leave AC in front of work.  Using MC, k across to 2nd M, SM, GTOG, k3 (4, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 9), turn.  

8:  GSR, p to 2nd M, SM, GTOG, p3 (4, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 9), turn.  

Note: From here on out, when you come to a paired stitch, knit (or purl) these two stitches together ‘GTOG’ as though it were one stitch.

9:  GSR using MC, leave MC in front of work.  Carry AC across front of work and between needles to the back.  In AC, k to 2nd M, SM, k6 (8, 9, 11) (11, 13, 14) (15, 17, 19), turn.   

10:  GSR, p to 2nd M, SM, p6 (8, 9, 11) (11, 13, 14) (15, 17, 19), turn.   

11: GSR using AC.  Carry MC across front of work and between needles to the back.  In MC, k to 2nd M, SM, k8 (11, 13, 16) (16, 19, 21) (23, 25, 28), turn.

12:  GSR, p to 2nd M, SM, p8 (11, 13, 16) (16, 19, 21) (23, 25, 28), turn.

13:  GSR using MC.  Carry AC across front of work and between needles to the back.  In AC, k to 2nd M, SM, k10 (14, 17, 21) (22, 25, 28) (31, 33, 37), turn.  

14:  GSR, p to 2nd M, SM, p10 (14, 17, 21) (22, 25, 28) (31, 33, 37), turn.  

15: GSR using AC.  Carry MC across front of work and between needles to the back.  In MC, k to 2nd M, SM, k12 (17, 21, 25) (28, 32, 35) (39, 42, 46), turn.  

16: GSR, purl ot 2nd M, SM, p12 (17, 21, 25) (28, 32, 35) (39, 42, 46), turn.  

17:  GSR using MC.  Carry AC across front of work and between needles to the back.  In AC, k across.  

18:  p across.  

You have now completed the short row shoulder shaping.  Continue on evenly working 2 rows in MC, 2 rows in AC.  

19:  carrying MC across front of work, k across.  

20:  p across in MC. 

21:  k across in AC.

22:  p across in AC.  

Repeat rows 19-22  5 (6, 7, 8) (9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14) more times.  Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later and set aside.  

Left Front

1 (WS):  with WS facing, pick up and knit 15 (20, 24, 29) (33, 38, 42) (47, 51, 56) stitches for left shoulder using AC.  

2 (RS):  in AC; purl.  

3:  in MC; knit.

4:  in MC; purl.

5:  in AC; knit.

6:  in AC; purl.

Repeat rows 3-6 twice more (7 stripes total).

All Sizes Except XXS:

7:  in MC; k to last st, M1R, k1.  [-, (21, 25, 30), (34, 39, 43), (48, 52, 57) sts].

8:  in MC; purl.  

9:  in AC; knit. 

10:  in AC; purl.  

Repeat rows 7-10  -, (1, 2, 4) (5, 7, 8) (10, 11, 13) more time(s).  [-, (22, 27, 34), (39, 46, 51), (58, 63, 70) sts].

All Sizes:

11:  in MC; k to last st, M1R, k1.  [16, (23, 28, 35), (40, 47, 52), (59, 64, 71) sts].

12:  in MC; purl.  

13: in AC; k to last st, M1R, k1.  [17, (24, 29, 36), (41, 48, 53), (60, 65, 72) sts]. 

14: in AC; purl.

Repeat rows 11-14  8 (7, 7, 6) (6, 5, 5) (4, 4, 3) more times.  [33, (38, 43, 48), (53, 58, 63), (68, 73, 78) sts]. 

Break yarn, set aside leaving a tail to weave in later.  

Right Front

1 (WS):  with WS facing, pick up and knit 15 (20, 24, 29) (33, 38, 42) (47, 51, 56) stitches for right shoulder using AC.   

2 (RS):  in AC; purl.  

3:  in MC; knit.

4:  in MC; purl.

5:  in AC; knit.

6:  in AC; purl.

Repeat rows 3-6 twice more (7 stripes total).

All Sizes Except XXS:

7:  in MC; k1, M1L, k to end of row.  [-, (21, 25, 30), (34, 39, 43), (48, 52, 57) sts].

8:  in MC; purl.  

9:  in AC; knit. 

10:  in AC; purl.  

Repeat rows 7-10  – (1, 2, 4) (5, 7, 8) (10, 11, 13) more time(s).  [-, (22, 27, 34), (39, 46, 51), (58, 63, 70) sts].

All Sizes:

11:  in MC; k1, M1L, k to end of row.  [16, (23, 28, 35), (40, 47, 52), (59, 64, 71) sts].

12:  in MC; purl.  

13:  in AC; k1, M1L, k to end of row.  [17, (24 ,29, 36), (41, 48, 53), (60, 65, 72) sts]. 

14:  in AC; purl.  

Repeat rows 11-14  8 (7, 7, 6) (6, 5, 5), (4, 4, 3) more times.  [33, (38, 43, 48), (53, 58, 63), (68, 73, 78) sts]. 

Front and Back Join

1 (WS):  in MC and continuing where you left off with the Right Front; k1, M1L, k across right front sts, CO2 PM, CO3, k across 86 (96, 106, 116) (126, 136, 146) (156, 166, 176) back sts, CO2, PM, CO3, k across left front to last st, M1R, k1.  [164, (184, 204, 224), (244, 264, 284), (304, 324, 344) sts]. 

Front and back body pieces are now joined with 5 CO sts at each underarm.  You will continue working flat to finish shaping the neckline.  Faux seams will be worked at each underarm.

2:  in MC; [p to 1 before M, k1, SM] 2x, p to end of row.

3:  in AC; k1, M1L, [k to M, SM, sl1p wyif] 2x, k to last st, M1R, k1.  [166, (186, 206, 226), (246, 266, 286), (306, 326, 346) sts]. 

4:  in AC; [p to 1 before M, k1, SM] 2x, p to end of row.

Repeat rows 3-4 six more times, alternating MC and AC.  [178, (198, 218, 238), (258, 278, 298), (318, 338, 358) sts].

Body Join

1 (WS):  in MC; k1, M1L, k to M, SM, sl1p wyif, k to M, SM, sl1p wyif, k to last st, M1R, k1, CO 2 sts.  [182, (202, 222, 242), (262, 282, 302), (322, 342, 362) sts].  

Break both colors of yarn leaving tails to weave in later.  

Without turning work and with WS still facing you, slip 44 (49, 54, 59) (64, 69, 74) (79, 84, 89) sts from left front to M.  This will now be beg/end of each rd.  Join new yarn.  

2:  in MC; p1, k to M, SM, p1, k to end of rd.  Move working yarn to front of work to carry along the WS. 

3:  in AC; sl1p wyif, k to M, SM, sl1p wyif, k to end of rd.  

4:  in AC; p1, k to M, p1, k to end of rd.  

Repeat rows 3-4  38 more times (40 stripes total), alternating MC and AC every 2 rows.  

Bottom Hem

5:  in MC; switch to size 6 needles, sl1p wyif, k to M, SM, sl1p wyif, k to end of rd. 

6:  in MC; [p1, k1] rib stitch until end of rd.  

7-8:  in AC; [p1, k1] rib stitch until end of rd.  

Repeat rows 7-8  6 more times, alternating MC and AC every 2 rows.  (8 stripes total worked in ribbing).

Then, in MC, work 1 more row in rib st.  Bind off using the tubular bind off method in MC.  

Neckline

Turn pullover right-side out (purl side facing).  Using MC and size 5 needles, begin picking up sts to work the neckline.  

Starting at the back right neckline, pick up and knit:  55 (55, 57, 57) (59, 59, 61) (61, 63, 63) sts across back of neckline, 64 (68, 74, 78) (84, 88, 94) (100, 104, 110) sts down left neckline to front, 3 sts at center front placing a M after the first 2, and 64 (68, 74, 78) (84, 88, 94) (100, 104, 110) sts up right neckline.  PM to denote beg/end of each round.  [186, (194, 208, 216), (230, 238, 252), (264, 274, 286) sts].

1:  in MC; [k1, p1] around. 

2:  in AC; k1, [p1, k1] to 2 before M, CDD removing M as needed, replace M after CDD, [k1, p1] to end of rd.  [184, (192, 206, 214), (228, 236, 250), (262, 272, 284) sts].

3:  in AC; [k1, p1] to 2 before M, k2, SM, [k1, p1] to end of rd.  

4:  in MC; [k1, p1] to 2 before M, CDD removing M as needed, replace M after CDD, [k1, p1] to end of rd.  [182, (190, 204, 212), (226, 234, 248), (260, 270, 282) sts].

5:  in MC; [k1, p1] to end of rd.  

Repeat rows 2-5 three more times.  [170, (178, 192, 200), (214, 222, 236), (248, 258, 270) sts].

Bind off round:  in MC; BO in rib st to 2 before M, CDD removing M as needed, continue BO in rib st to end of rd.  

Sleeves

With RS (purl bumps) facing and using the tail of the yarn; beginning on the side of the underarm with MC, pick up and knit 3 out of every 4 sts around armhole opening and 7 sts at the underarm.  [69, (75, 79, 93), (99, 107, 111), (117, 123, 129) sts].  

Turn inside out to work sleeve in stockinette stitch.  

2:  in MC; k3 underarm sts.  PM to denote beg/end of each rd.  Knit to end of rd.  

3:  in AC; sl1pwyif, k to end of rd. 

4 (decrease row):  in AC; p1, ssk, k to last 2, k2tog.  [67, (73, 77, 91), (97, 105, 109), (115, 121, 127) sts]. 

Note: Continue to alternate MC and AC every 2 rows. alternate colors every other rd.

Work 13, (11, 9, 7), (5, 5, 5), (5, 5, 3) rds even in patt.

Rep the last 14 (12, 10, 8) (6, 6, 6) (6, 6, 4) rds, 3 (1, 9, 2) (15, 11, 9) (5, 3, 28) more time(s).  [61, (71, 59, 87), (67, 83, 91), (105, 115, 71) sts].

All Sizes except 5X:

Next rd: Rep decrease row. [59, (69, 57, 85), (65, 81, 89), (103, 113, -) sts].

Work 11 (9, 7, 5) (3, 3, 3) (3, 3, -) rds even in patt.

Rep the last 12 (10, 8, 6) (4, 4, 4) (4, 4, -) rds, 3 (7, 0, 13) (2, 9, 12) (18, 22, -) more time(s). [53, (55, 57, 59), (61, 63, 65), (67, 69, -) sts].

All Sizes:

Work 1 more rd even in patt. There should be 27 (27, 28, 28) (28, 29, 29) (29, 30, 30) total stripes in each color.

You may work more/less at this point to make your sleeve longer/shorter.  Be sure to end with the second round of an AC stripe.  

Please note that Cria does grow a bit when blocked.  Therefore, when modifying sleeve length it is best to count your rows based off your gauge swatch to assure proper fit. 

Sleeve Cuff

On the next round, switch to size 6 needles.  

Set up round: in MC; ssk, k to end of rd. [52, (54, 56, 58), (60, 62, 64), (66, 68, 70) sts].

2:  in MC; [k1, p1] rib stitch until end of rd.  

3-4:  in AC; [k1, p1] rib stitch until end of rd.  

Repeat rows 3-4  6 more times, alternating MC and AC every 2 rows (8 stripes total worked in ribbing).

Then, in MC, work 1 more row in rib st.  Bind off using the tubular bind off method in MC.  

Finishing

Weave in all ends to secure.  

Wet block sweater by soaking in lukewarm water.  Gently remove excess water and moisture by pressing the sweater between clean towels.  

Lay flat to dry using the schematic as a guide to achieve the desired shape and measurements without over-stretching.  

Enjoy!

Pattern Support

I hope you’ve enjoyed the Seasons Sweater Knitting Pattern!

For questions, please comment below or email: support@originallylovely.com

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