Diamond Lace Ruana Knitting Pattern
An updated version of an Originally Lovely classic ~ this easy pattern is the perfect introduction to lace knitting
This knitting pattern is an updated version of the Diamond Lace Kimono, originally released in 2016.
A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment. The original name of this pattern appropriated the cultural significance of a true Japanese Kimono. If you’d like to learn more about the Kimono and why using this term is appropriation, check out this article.
Learn how to make the Diamond Lace Ruana
The Diamond Lace Ruana has been one of the most popular Originally Lovely knitting patterns over the years. Designed with generous drape and lofty stitches, it truly looks amazing on everyone — check out the project page on Ravelry to see for yourself!
While the original pattern had a beautiful design, it really wasn’t written well. It only contained charted instructions and there were sections that weren’t explained clearly.
Since its release in 2016, I’ve gotten much better at writing knitting patterns. I’ve learned a lot, hired a professional tech editor, released an amazing yarn line, and worked to make my designs as easy to follow and enjoyable to knit as possible.
Needless to say, this new edition of the Diamond Lace Ruana is much better than the previous knitting pattern. Knit it with Originally Lovely Pima yarn for the perfect project!
Continue reading to view the free knitting pattern, or shop the ad-free, printable PDF in our pattern shop, on Ravelry, or on Etsy.
Diamond Lace Ruana Knitting Pattern
Skill Level
Easy +
To complete this knitting pattern, you will need to know how to knit, purl, work increases and decreases, seam, pick up stitches, and feel confident reading written instructions. Pattern is both written and charted. Knowledge of stitch charts is helpful but not required.
Materials you’ll need
Please note: Yarn weight and yardage requirements are estimates. Using yarn of different fiber composition, ply, gauge, and any modifications will lead to differences in yarn usage.
Gauge
15 stitches and 23 rows = 4 inches in Diamond Lace Stitch Pattern
Please note: Always remember to gauge swatch especially when substituting yarn in a pattern! Small changes in gauge can lead to large changes in the finished garment so assure a proper fit with the proper gauge!
Construction Notes
This pattern will be worked in one piece flat, starting at the back, working up, separating for the neckline, and then down each front side separately. Once the main body is completed, you will then pick up stitches around the neckline opening to work the neckband. Finally, you will seam each side to complete the Ruana.
Pattern instructions are both written and charted. The beginning instructions for each section will note how to follow the chart for that section and the rows that follow will denote the instructions written out row-by-row.
Finished Dimensions
This pattern is designed in one size to create a shawl-like Ruana that fits relaxed and oversized with generous drape. Finished dimensions are approximately 36” wide and 24” long.
Pattern Support
For additional help and pattern support, please comment below or email: support@originallylovely.com
Diamond Lace Stitch CHart
Abbreviations
This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
K = knit
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right leaning single decrease)
k3tog = knit 3 together (right leaning double decrease)
k3togtbl = knit 3 together through the back loop (left leaning double decrease)
M1L = make one left. Pick up the back between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back.
M1R = make one right. Pick up the back between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.
p2tog = purl 2 together
p2togtbl = purl 2 together through the back loop
RM = remove stitch marker
RS = right side
SSK = slip slip knit (left leaning single decrease)
st = stitch
WS = wrong side
YO = yarn over
[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
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Knitting Pattern Instructions
Hem
Cast on 137 sts.
Rows 1-6: knit.
7: purl.
Main Back
You will now begin working the diamond lace motif. If following the stitch chart, you will work 9 Diamond Lace columns across the back of the piece. The bolded box in the attached chart represents 2 Diamond Lace columns. Working 9 columns means that you will work across the bolded box in the chart 4 times, and then complete the final 15 stitches.
The first and last stitch of each row will be worked in stockinette stitch meaning you will knit the first and last stitch on each RS row and purl the first and last stitch on each WS row. This stitch at the beginning and end of each row will be where you seam into at the end to complete the Ruana.
Note: To help quickly visualize your lace columns, you may optionally place a stitch marker after the first stitch, before the last stitch, and between each of the 15 stitches that represent one Diamond Lace column.
Repeat until you have completed rows 1-16 of the stitch chart 4 times total.
Row 1 (RS): k1, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): purl.
3: k1, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3.
5: k1, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4.
7: k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5.
9: k1, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k6.
11: k1, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k4.
13: k1, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k3.
15: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep from * 3 more times to last 16 sts, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2.
16: purl.
17-64: Repeat rows 1-16 three more times.
Armhole Opening
You will now shape the armhole opening. The first and last stitches of each row will now be worked in garter stitch (knit on both RS and WS rows). You will increase at the beginning and end of each row, after the garter sts, 5 times total.
Row 1 (RS): k1, M1L, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep from * 3 more times, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, M1R, k1. [139 sts].
2 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
3: k2, M1L, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep from * 3 more times, k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, M1R, k2. [141 sts].
4: k3, p to last 3, k3.
5: k3, M1L, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep from * 3 more times, k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, M1R, k3. [143 sts].
6: k4, p to last 4, k4.
7: k4, M1L, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep from * 3 more times, k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, M1R, k4. [145 sts].
8: k5, p to last 5, k5.
9: k5, M1L, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep from * 3 more times, k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, M1R, k5. [147 sts].
10 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): k6, p to last 6, k6.
11: k6, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep from * 3 more times, k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
13: k6, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep from * 3 more times, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
15: k6, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep from * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
16: k6, p to last 6, k6.
UPPER BACK
If following the stitch chart, you will now continue even, working the Diamond Lace pattern as established while working the first and last 6 sts of each row in garter stitch. Continue in this way until you have completed the Diamond Lace chart 3 more times from this point, (8 times from the beginning of your work). End with a RS row (row 15 of the stitch chart).
Row 1 (RS): k6, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep from * 3 more times, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): k6, p to last 6, k6.
3: k6, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep from * 3 more times, k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k to end of row.
5: k6, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep from * 3 more times, k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k to end of row.
7: k6, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep from * 3 more times, k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k to end of row.
9: k6, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep from * 3 more times, k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k to end of row.
11: k6, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep from * 3 more times, k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
13: k6, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep from * 3 more times, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
15: k6, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep from * 3 more times, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k to end of row.
16: k6, p to last 6, k6.
17-47: Repeat rows 1-16. Then, repeat rows 1-15 once more so that the next row is a WS row.
NECKLINE SEPARATION
Now, you will bind off the center 15 sts to separate and shape the left and right front pieces separately.
Next Row (WS): k6, p 60, BO center 15 sts, p to last 6, k6.
You will now have 66 sts on either side of the 15 center bound off sts.
Right Side
You will now work back and forth across the first 66 sts to shape the Right Front. Place the last 66 sts on a holder.
NECKLINE SHAPING
If following the stitch chart, you will beg at row 1, decreasing by k2tog at the end of each RS row and p2tog at the beginning of each WS row until you have 52 sts.
1 (RS): k6, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep from * once more stopping 2 sts before end of row, k2tog. [65 sts].
2 (WS): p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [64 sts].
3: k8, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k to last 2, k2tog. [63 sts].
4: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [62 sts].
5: k9, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k to last 2, k2tog. [61 sts].
6: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [60 sts].
7: k10, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k to last 2, k2tog. [59 sts].
8: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [58 sts].
9: k10, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k to last 2, k2tog. [57 sts].
10: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [56 sts].
11: k9, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k to last 2, k2tog. [55 sts].
12: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [54 sts].
13: k8, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k to last 2, k2tog. [53 sts].
14: p2tog, p to last 6, k6. [52 sts].
15: k7, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2.
16: p to last 6, k6.
UPPER RIGHT
You will now continue even, working the Diamond Lace pattern as established while working the first 6 sts of each row in garter stitch. Continue in this way until you have completed the Diamond Lace chart twice more from this point, and then rows 1-6 of the chart once more. End with a WS row (row 6 of the stitch chart).
1 (RS): k6, * k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, * k5, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): p to last 6, k6.
3: k6, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, * k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep between *s once more.
5: k6, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, * k3, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep between *s once more, k2.
7: k6, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k1.
9: k6, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k1.
11: k6, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k1.
13: k6, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k1.
15: k6, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
17-32: rep rows 1-16.
33-38: rep rows 1-6.
RIGHT ARMHOLE DECREASES
You will now decrease to shape the front armhole opening.
1 (RS, corresponds to row 7 on the chart): k4, k2tog * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k1. [51 sts].
2 (WS): p to last 5, k5.
3: k3, k2tog, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k1. [50 sts].
4: p to last 4, k4.
5: k2, k2tog * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k1. [49 sts].
6: p to last 3, k3.
7: k1, k2tog, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k1. [48 sts].
8: p to last 2, k2.
9: k2tog, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k1. [47 sts].
10: p across.
LOWER RIGHT FRONT
You will now complete the front right panel of the Ruana. From this point forward, you will complete the stitch chart four more times.
Row 1 (RS): k1, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, * k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): purl.
3: k1, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, * k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep between *s once more, k1.
5: k1, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, * k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep between *s once more, k1.
7: k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k1.
9: k1, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k1.
11: k1, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k1.
13: k1, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k1.
15: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
16: purl.
17-64: Repeat rows 1-16 three more times.
65-70: knit.
Bind off in knit.
Left Side
You will now work back and forth across the 66 sts that were set aside for left front.
NECKLINE SHAPING
If following the stitch chart, you will beg at row 1, decreasing by ssk at the beg of each RS row and p2togtbl at the end of each WS row until you have 52 sts.
1 (RS): ssk, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1 *; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [65 sts].
2 (WS): k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [64 sts].
3: ssk, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, * k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [63 sts].
4: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [62 sts].
5: ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, * k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [61 sts].
6: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [60 sts].
7: ssk, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [59 sts].
8: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [58 sts].
9: ssk, k4, YO, ssk, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [57 sts].
10: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [56 sts].
11: ssk, k4, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [55 sts].
12: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [54 sts].
13: ssk, k2, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k to end of row. [53 sts].
14: k6, p to last 2, p2togtbl. [52 sts].
15: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k to end of row.
16: k6, p across.
UPPER LEFT
You will now continue even, working the Diamond Lace pattern as established while working the last 6 sts of each row in garter stitch. Continue in this way until you have completed the Diamond Lace chart twice more from this point, and then rows 1-6 of the chart once more. End with a WS row (row 6 of the stitch chart).
1 (RS): k1 * k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, * k5, yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k4; rep between *s once more, k6.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): k6, p across.
3: k1, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, * k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep between *s once more, k6.
5: k1 * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, * k3, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep between *s once more, k6.
7: k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k1.
9: k1, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k6.
11: k1, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k6.
13: k1, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k6.
15: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k6.
17-32: rep rows 1-16.
33-38: rep rows 1-6.
LEFT ARMHOLE DECREASES
You will now decrease to shape the front armhole opening.
1 (corresponds to row 7 on the chart): k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more to last 6, ssk, k4. [51 sts].
2: k5, p across.
3: k1, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more to last 5, ssk, k3. [50 sts].
4: k4, p across.
5: k1, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more to last 4, ssk, k2. [49 sts].
6: k3, p across.
7: k1, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, to last 3, ssk, k1. [48 sts].
8: k2, p across.
9: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more to last 2, ssk. [47 sts].
10: p across.
LOWER LEFT FRONT
You will now complete the lower left front as done for the lower right front.
Row 1 (RS): k1, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, * k5, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
2 (and all WS rows until otherwise noted): purl.
3: k1, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2, * k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k3; rep between *s once more, k1.
5: k1, * k3, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, * k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k2; rep between *s once more, k1.
7: k1, * k4, YO, k3tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k4, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1; rep between *s once more, k1.
9: k1, * k4, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k5, * k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk; rep between *s once more, k1.
11: k1, * k3, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, * k2, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k2; rep between *s once more, k1.
13: k1, * k2, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, * k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, k2tog, YO, k3; rep between *s once more, k1.
15: k1, * k1, k2tog, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k2, YO, ssk, k1, * k4, YO, ssk, k2, YO, k3togtbl, YO, k4; rep between *s once more, k1.
16: purl.
17-64: Repeat rows 1-16 three more times.
65-70: knit.
Bind off in knit.
Neckband
With RS facing, pick up and knit 102 stitches (3 stitches out of every 4 rows) along the front edge starting at bottom of right front, working up to the neckline, pick up and knit 17 sts (one stitch in the V of each stitch) across back of neckline, continue down front left edge picking up and knitting 102 sts to bottom edge.
Knit 6 rows even. Bind off in knit.
Finishing
Seam along either side of body using a mattress stitch. Weave in all ends to secure.
Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry.
Enjoy!
Did you knit the diamond Lace Ruana?
I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely on Instagram!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is this pattern really one size?
A: Surprisingly, yes! It seems to look great on everyone. The generous positive ease built into the pattern has a beautiful drape that fits most all body types. If you’d like to see some projects that have already been knit, check out the project page on Ravelry!
Q: Can I substitute a different yarn?
A: You can always go ahead and try using a different yarn if you are adventurous! I highly recommend Originally Lovely Pima, but the beauty of knitting is that you can modify the pattern to fit your needs. The original design was knit in super wash merino wool, which has a tendency to overstretch with time, but looks beautiful as well.
Q: Why does this pattern use size 9 needles with a DK weight yarn?
A: This knitting pattern is designed to have a generous drape and loft — almost like a shawl. Using larger needles and thinner yarn gives a beautiful open, lace look to the stitches!
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The pattern is very pretty.
Thank you 🙂
By the way, the pattern is really lovely. Thanks for making it free.
I love this kimono, and want to make it very soon. I am a little confused on one thing. After row 7 (purl), how do I actually start row 8 to follow the symbols on the diamond lace? Thanks so much in advance for the help.
Janet Thomas
Hi Janet! Rows 8-23 are worked following the chart after you k1, at the beginning and end of each row. So for example, row 8 is worked as follows:
k1, (k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog) 4 times, k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k6.
I hope that this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions! I am so happy you like the pattern 🙂
Thank you so much. I love your blog!
Thank you! That means so much 🙂
Dear Kaitlin
The 8th row like you explained, i understand, but there is 137 stitches & the 18 sts extra?, where does they come from (after the 4 times repeat).
Sorry if i ask dumb questions, your help will be appreciated.
Kind regards
Anita Labuschagne
Hi Anita!
Not a dumb question at all. For the back, you will work the chart 4 times across, and then the first diamond once more, so 9 columns of diamonds total across the back with a single knit stitch at the beginning and end (15*9=135 plus the 2 knit stitches =137).
Then, when you increase for the armhole you are making stitches between that first stitch and the diamond pattern.
Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any more questions!
HI there lovely pattern! Any chance of the chart being written out? Many of us can’t use stitch charts, but I”d love to make this and I think I actually have the yarn in my stash! Thanks so much for your lovely work.
Hello! I have the first row written out in another comment. The reason I used the chart is because the written instructions are so long!
I understand how to read the chart and it is pretty easy but to use this chart the way it is written you need to do row 8 (I would be better to # the rows also so people could make a note as to which row they stopped on), then Row 9 is purled back. So on every other row do you do the 2 sections of the cart ( right and left of the center line) then go back and knit the first part again. IF that is true then there really should be another column of the first part, then repreat the chart as written. Am I understanding this correctly?
Hi Debra, I have just updated the pattern to make this more clear. For row 8 you will sl1 p-wise, then begin working across the chart. Since there is 9 diamond repeats across the back of the pattern, you will work across the chart 4 times, and then work the first diamond (first 15 stitches of the chart) once more. The last stitch of the row will be knit. This centers the diamond repeats across the back and allows a selvage stitch on each side to seam up. Row 9 and all WS rows are worked by slipping the first stitch p-wise, and then purling back. I hope this clarifies things for you and anyone else wondering. Please let me know if you still have questions.
-Kaitlin
Hi! I’m still new with reading written patterns so I just want to clarify a few things. In the Armhole shaping part, is correct that I need to repeat the diamond lace pattern 4 times? And then, do I need to finish that 4 repeat before continuing to the neckline shaping? Thanks!
Hi Kristine! Yes that is correct. 4 total repeats worked even after row 10 in the armhole shaping section. 4 diamond repeats includes the part of the diamond worked in rows 1-10 in this section. Once this is completed you will separate for either front!
Let me know if you still have questions 🙂
Hi! I have another question. The selvage stitch at the beginning and the end of the row, should it be done all throughout the pattern (including the garter stitch at the beginning)?
Yes! The selvage stitch always makes the ends look more polished and is easier to seam together. If you didn’t include the selvage in the beginning, that is ok! You can continue but just be sure to work a selvage from this point forward and pay extra attention when seaming 🙂
I don’t knit, but if I did, I’d want to do this one!
You should learn! Knitting is my favorite 🙂
Hi
Just love the pattern and thank you for sharing. I have dropped down to a size 5 needle and it is looking good! I was just checking your replies so I now know I need to knit 12″ before I start the armhole as 4 repeats for me are not enough.
The width still looks good, I have had to order more wool because I changed down a size in needles, hope they still have the same dyelot available.
Hi Liz! I’m glad you like the pattern. Let me know if you have any questions!
Hi, I have a question about the beginning and end .After cast on you garter stick for 6 rows purl 1 row and then start pattern . However at the end you purl 5 rows and cast off in purl. Wouldn’t it be better to keep it the same? I am using hand spun and dyed wool dipped in 3 colours with a single coloured band and it would look odd I think. Love the pattern though, challenging but interesting.
Hello! Yes you do keep it even, because you end with a WS row, you work 5 rows in purl to keep it in line with the front. It is worked flat so working 5 rows in purl yields the same result as 5 rows garter stitch, you are just making sure the row count is the same so you can seam the sides with the front almost invisibly!
Great pattern. For the shoulders, when you write to repeat the 2 decrease rows until there are 52 stitches on the needle, are you including the k6 edge? In assuming not, but I wanted to clarify before continuing!
I think my earlier comment got eaten! I love this pattern–it is going to be beautiful when I finish. I have a couple questions about the shoulder, armhole decreases, and fronts. For the shoulders, when you say repeat the 2 decrease rows until 52 stitches remain on the needle, do those 52 stitches include the k6 edge? On the armhole decreases, are you knitting fewer edge stitches every row (for example, would row 3 be worked in pattern to the last 5 stitches, ssk, k3) and so on? And once you get to the front, do you revert back to slipping the first & last stitch purlwise or is that only for the back?
Hello! Yes, the 52 stitches do include the k6 edge. This is 3 diamond repeats (15 sets each) a selvage stitch at the neckline edge, and the k6 armhole edge (52 sets total). For the armhole decreases, you are working the decreases “as established” so yes, row 3 would mean work in pattern to last 5 (vs 6 of row 1), and row 4 would mean k4, purl across (vs k5, purl across of row 2). Finally, yes you do continue with the selvage stitch, this makes it easier to sew the seams at the end 🙂
Let me know if you have any more questions! Kaitlin
Hi there, I am loving knitting this, but I am about 5 rows past the middle cast off section, i.e.the left shoulder and on the inside(front) edge, I am p2tbl and ssk. as indicated in the pattern. But I see in the picture that the inside (front) edge has the 6 stitch knitted edge like the outside arm edge. Am I missing something?
Never mind, I just read to the end of the pattern and saw that that band gets added afterwards. Sorry for the bother!
Hi Jennifer, yes, the band gets added at the end when you pick up the stitches. Hope you are enjoying the pattern 🙂
I just love this kimono, and also your patterns you post. Will be starting to knit this one when I decide what color to knit it in. Thank you for all the free patterns
I’m so glad to hear it! Thanks for reading 🙂
Love this pattern 💕 I will be knitting it once I have some more practice, I am just returning to knitting again after a long absence. I have just found your blog and am finding it very interesting and loving many of your knitting patterns, thank you for offering them for free 😁
I’m so glad you like it, thanks for reading 🙂
This is my first true lace project, I was wondering how the left/right shoulders were done, to keep the pattern from shifting and keeping it in line, since it has the p2tbl. when I work across in the pattern, am I just starting at the beginning of that row in the chart and going across as it reads, or am I reading that wrong? I think i’m just confused as to how to do this portion.
Hello! So there isn’t shaping in the shoulders, how the kimono drapes gives the shoulder shape! So when you begin working that section you will continue in the lace pattern as you have been. Let me know what spot specifically or if you need more help and I can explain it more 🙂
Hi there. I am just getting past row 10 for the armhole shaping and was wondering what stitch i need to do for the odd rows. Is it suppose to be k6, purl till last 6, k6 until 4 complete diamond repeats? Thank you! I cant wait to finish! This is my first knitting project lol
Hi Courtney! Yes, continue knitting ‘as established’ meaning you k6, purl to last 6, and then k6 🙂 Let me know if you have any other questions!
Another question I have please. I am attempting the left shoulder. I did the 2 rows a couple of times and the pattern isn’t matching up. I’m thinking because the SSK decrease is screwing it up and then I guess it makes it so u have to follow the pattern backwards because the neckline row ends with the second set of 15 where the cast off is?? I have ripped it out a few times and have no idea what I’m doing wrong. I’m working in the round which is what the directions call for but it isn’t working for me. And just to make sure, the neckline shaping row is the first row on the bottom of the chart that is followed before making the shoulder? Please help!🙂
Hi!
You aren’t supposed to work in-the-round, the entire kimono is worked flat. Remember that you have a selvage stitches so that may be throwing off your count.
Kaitlin
I figured it out. . .sent you an email🙂
Hi,
I love this pattern. I have a question re: armhole shaping. I followed the instruction until Row 10 (followed table) and I also continued to the last 3 even lines of the table using K6 follow table K6 and on the next line the K6 p…K6. If I understand this correctly, should I repeat this 1-10 steps or I did 1-15 steps and do it 4 more times ?? before I go to the neckline shaping?
Help I am confused.
Thanks
Hi! So rows 1-10 in this section are increasing for the armholes. After you have increased, you won’t increase again you will work the chart even in the k6, follow chart, k6 pattern until you have worked the chart 4 times total. The reason it says 3.5 times (4 times total) is because in rows 1-10 you have already completed half of the chart so you will work it 3.5 more times to give you 4 repeats total from the beginning of the armhole shaping. After you’ve repeated it 4 times, then you will move onto the neckline shaping
Hi!.. Love this pattern but am finding it difficult to find a yarn similar to the one you use as I’m in the uk . .. Can it be any 8ply yarn? Thanks
Hi Jill! Yes, most 8ply yarns will work. I would just play around with gauge and look for a more lofty yarn that has nice drape 🙂
Hi, I’ve been working on the shoulder part and got a question. It said that when you reach 52 stitches, work even for 3 diamond repeat lengths from this point. So is the shoulder part a total of 3 diamond repeat lengths or 4 diamond repeat lengths? Does the decreasing part count in the 3 repeats? Please help! Thanks!
Hi! The decreased stitches don’t count in the 3 additional diamond repeats, you will be knitting for 4 total diamond repeat lengths in this section. I hope this helps, Happy Knitting!
Something is wrong — there is no FREE pattern to download at that link you gave us. Lied again???
Hi! The free pattern is accessible here, on the webpage. The printable PDF is available for purchase only. I haven’t lied, let alone lied again. I hope that helps, Happy Knitting!
I found that if a marker is placed after each diamond pattern it was easier to follow and make less errors therefore no ripping. Very nice pattern and looks beautiful still knitting but love it very much. Thanks for the free pattern.