Golden Hour Sun Dress Crochet Pattern
Introducing: the Golden Hour Sun Dress — free crochet pattern
The Golden Hour Sun Dress crochet pattern evokes feelings of bright summer sunsets and floral blooms. Beautiful lace detailing along the skirt and sleeves elevate an otherwise simple, double crocheted dress. This sundress is uniquely constructed by working the bodice flat before shaping the skirt in the round.
This sun dress crochet pattern is available for free on my website, as a printable PDF on Ravelry and Etsy, and as a kit with Lion Brand Yarn.
Scroll down the access the free pattern, shop the kit, or continue reading to learn a bit more about the design and some pointers to help you out.
**please note, some links may be affiliate links which will allow me to make a small commission on products purchased through my referral. This does not influence my opinion or the price of the item that you are purchasing in any way.
Golden Hour Sun Dress Crochet Pattern Design
It took me so many attempts to decide upon a design for this sundress. I think I restarted 3-4 times! It was tough because I knew I wanted it to be flowy and relaxed but I wanted to be conscious of the weight. Cotton yarn can get quite heavy so I didn’t want to use any more yarn that necessary.
I also knew that I wanted the details of this dress to be simple but really stand out. The lace design that I ended up going with works great because its simple and easy to work but still intricate enough to give the boho vibe I was looking for.
For the body I chose to use double crochet stitches. I thought this was the best choice because they work up quite quickly but still create an opaque, solid style fabric for nice coverage.
Because of the lace detailing, I would recommend you wear a slip under this dress if you are worried about coverage. I wore a light colored slip but after looking at some photos of other crochet dresses online, I’m not even sure its necessary. Even when you can slightly see through crochet dresses it’s not like they are revealing. Do what feels most conformable to you. My advice? Definitely nothing bright colored underneath!
Yarn and Materials
The yarn that I chose for this sun dress is 24/7 Cotton from Lion Brand in the color Camel. I loved this butterscotch color and knew it would look so nice for late summer.
One of the things I love most about 24/7 Cotton is that it’s super easy to work with. Your crochet hook never splits through it and the stitch definition is amazing. I’ve used this yarn recently in my Seaside Sun Hat and Shawl crochet patterns.
If you are interested in using the same yarn to make this dress, you might want to check out the crochet kit with Lion Brand Yarn. The kit contains all the yarn needled to make this dress and a free PDF of the crochet pattern!
I will note, this yarn is not really that soft. It’s not necessarily rough but it has more of a rope-like feel to it. I love the way it looks when worked up but if softness is important to you, you might want to check out some of my other yarn recommendations listed below!
Yarn Substitutions:
- Nuboo from Lion Brand: This yarn is amazing, I used it for my Granny Square Cardigan and I loved the way it drapes and is a bit silky. I think this yarn would make a dress that has a bit more drape than 24/7 Cotton so keep that in mind. I will also note that this yarn is a bit ‘splitty’ so keep that in mind if that’s something that bothers you!
- Pima Cotton from Lion Brand: Pima cotton is a bit softer than regular cotton, or dishcloth cotton if you want to imagine it that way. Its one of my favorite materials and I reach for it whenever I want a good, basic yarn. This yarn would be a great option if you love the look of the 24/7 Cotton but want something that is a bit softer and more matte.
- LB Collection Mako Cotton: I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, this yarn is SO luxurious. I would definitely use this yarn if softness is essential to you or if you love the look of a gentle halo or ‘fluff’ to your yarn. There aren’t many colors available because its part of Lion Brand’s luxury online only collection. An added benefit of this yarn is that its chainette style so your hook won’t split through it!
- LB Collection Cotton Jeans: Another LB Collection yarn, this would make a great denim style dress. I can imagine myself wearing it with a cute pair of summer boots! This yarn is listed as a category 3 yarn but its definitely a bit heavier than DK so I think it would work perfectly for this pattern, just be sure to gauge swatch!
- Comfy Cotton Blend by Lion Brand: I’m sure you could have guessed I would recommend this yarn! It’s forever a favorite. I would use one of the solid colors to best show off the lace stitches.
- Comfy Worsted by KnitPicks: This yarn is so soft and available in TONS of colors. Comfy Color Mist is the speckled version of this yarn but again, I would probably stick to a solid color to best show off the stitches.
- Dishie from KnitPicks: This yarn is very straightforward ‘dishcloth’ style cotton. It’s a bit softer and has more movement than the dish cotton you can find at craft stores — would be a great option if you want a 100%, no nonsense cotton yarn.
As always, be sure to gauge swatch, especially when substituting yarn. Small differences in gauge can lead to large changes in the size of the finished item!
Golden Hour Sun Dress Crochet Pattern
© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2022
This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.
The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.
Shop the Golden Hour Sun Dress kit with Lion Brand Yarn HERE
Skill Level
Intermediate
Materials
7, (7, 8, 9, 10), (10, 11, 12, 13) skeins / 1302, (1302, 1488, 1674, 1860), (1860, 2046, 2232, 2418) yards Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn (shown in Camel)
Size US G-6 (4.00 mm) crochet hook >> shop my favorite affordable hook set HERE
Removable Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle to weave in ends
Gauge:
14 sts and 8 rows = 4” in double crochet
Finished Dimensions:
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X | |
| Bust | 30.75 | 34.25 | 37.73 | 41 | 44.5 | 48 | 51.5 | 55 | 58.25 |
| Length | 36 | 36 | 36 | 37 | 37 | 37 | 38 | 38 | 38 |
| Armhole Depth | 10 | 10 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.
Help Choosing Size:
This dress is designed to be worn with 0-4” of positive ease at the bust. Model is 6” tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size small with 1.25” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 0-4” larger than your corresponding bust measurement. Alternatively, if you prefer the dress to fit more snugly around your waist with negative ease at your bust, choose a size that is closest to your waist measurement.
Notes:
- Turning chains do NOT count as the first stitch.
- Throughout this entire pattern, stitches will be worked into both loops.
- When working in the round, you will chain and turn at the end of each round to avoid visible seams
- Modifications for length will be noted in the pattern.
Construction Notes:
This sun dress crochet pattern is constructed by first working the bodice and then the skirt. Bodice will be worked flat beginning at the bottom front and working up towards the neckline, separating to shape each shoulder, and joining together to work down the back. You will then join both ends of the bodice to work in the round. From this point, the skirt will be worked in the round, downwards. Neckline and sleeves will then be crocheted at the end and seams will be worked on either side of the bodice to finish.
Abbreviations:
This pattern is written using U.S. English terminology.
[ ] = work instructions in brackets as many times as directed
( ) = work instructions in parenthesis as many times as directed
Beg = beginning
Ch = chain stitch
Chsp = chain space
DC = double crochet
DC2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together
Inc = (increase) Work 2 double crochet stitches into the next st to increase
M = marker
MR = magic ring
PM = place marker
Rd = round
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together
Sk = skip
Slst = slipped stitch
Sp = space
St = stitch
Sts = stitches
TR = treble crochet
Golden Hour Sun Dress Crochet Pattern
Bodice:
Ch 56, (62, 68, 74, 80), (86, 92, 98, 104).
Set Up Row: In 3rd ch from hook and working into the bar behind chains, DC, DC in each ch across. Ch2 & turn. [54, (60, 66, 72, 78), (84, 90, 96, 102) sts].
Rows 2-18: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
Left Front:
You will now work back and forth across the first 27, (30, 33, 36, 39), (42, 45, 48, 51) stitches of the next row to shape the left front.
19: slst in the next 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) sts, DC in each of the next 22 (25, 28, 30, 33) (36, 38, 41, 44) sts, DC2tog. Ch2 & turn.
The slipped sts will be left for the underarm. The DC sts are now the row you will be working across. [23, (26, 29, 31, 34), (37, 39, 42, 45) sts].
20: DC2tog, DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn. [22, (25, 28, 30, 33), (36, 38, 41, 44) sts].
21: DC in each st to last 2, DC2tog. Ch2 & turn. [21, (24, 27, 29, 32), (35, 37, 40, 43) sts].
22: DC2tog, DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn. [20, (23, 26, 28, 31), (34, 36, 39, 42) sts].
Repeat rows 21-22 2 more times. [16, (19, 22, 24, 27), (30, 32, 35, 38) sts].
23: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
24: DC2tog, DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn. [15, (18, 21, 23, 26), (29, 31, 34, 37) sts].
Repeat rows 23-24 3, (3, 3, 4, 4), (4, 5, 5, 5) more times. [12, (15, 18, 19, 22), (25, 26, 29, 32) sts].
25-26: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
27: DC in each st to last st, inc in last st. Ch2 & turn. [13, (16, 19, 20, 23), (26, 27, 30, 33) sts].
28: Inc, DC in each st across. [14, (17, 20, 21, 24), (27, 28, 31, 34) sts].
Place M in st on hook to prevent from unraveling and set aside to work Right Front. No need to break yarn, we will use this yarn when we join to work back.
Right Front:
Beginning at the first st left unworked at the center neckline, you will work across the first 24, (27, 30, 32, 35), (38, 40, 43, 46) sts to shape the right front. Final 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) sts will be left unworked for underarm.
19: pull up a loop in the 1st st, ch2, DC2tog this st with next st, DC in eac h of the next 22 (25, 28, 30, 33) (36, 38, 41, 44). Ch2 & turn. [23, (26, 29, 31, 34), (37, 39, 42, 45) sts].
20: DC in each st to last 2, DC2tog. Ch2 & turn. [22, (25, 28, 30, 33), (36, 38, 41, 44) sts].
21: DC2tog, DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn. [21, (24, 27, 29, 32), (35, 37, 40, 43) sts].
22: DC in each st to last 2, DC2tog. Ch2 & turn. [20, (23, 26, 28, 31), (34, 36, 39, 42) sts].
Repeat rows 21-22 2 more times. [16, (19, 22, 24, 27), (30, 32, 35, 38) sts].
23: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
24: DC in each st to last 2, DC2tog. Ch2 & turn. [15, (18, 21, 23, 26), (29, 31, 34, 37) sts].
Repeat rows 23-24 3, (3, 3, 4, 4), (4, 5, 5, 5) more times. [12, (15, 18, 19, 22), (25, 26, 29, 32) sts].
25-26: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
27: Inc, DC across. Ch2 & turn. [13, (16, 19, 20, 23), (26, 27, 30, 33) sts].
28: DC in each st to last st, inc. [14, (17, 20, 21, 24), (27, 28, 31, 34) sts].
Break yarn leaving a tail to weave in later and set aside.
Back:
You will now continue on with the sts set aside after working the Left front. Remove M and put this st on your hook once more. Ch2 & turn.
Set Up Row: DC into each of the next 13 (16, 19, 20, 23) (26, 27, 30, 33) sts, inc next st, ch 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22), careful not to twist chain, begin working into the sts for the Right front by inc in the first st at neckline edge, DC in each of the next 13 (16, 19, 20, 23) (26, 27, 30, 33) sts to end of row. Ch2 & turn.
1: DC into each st to the ch, DC into the 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22) ch sts, DC into each st to end of row. [48, (54, 60, 64, 70), (76, 80, 86, 92) sts].
2: DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn.
Repeat row 2 11, (11, 11, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) more times.
3: DC in each st across, ch 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) (5, 6, 6, 6) & turn.
4: in 2nd ch from hook, slst, slst i n each of the next 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) chains, DC in each st across, ch5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 7) & turn.
5: in 3rd ch from hook, DC, DC in each of the next 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) chains, DC in each st across. Ch2 & turn. [54, (60, 66, 72, 78), (84, 90, 96, 102) sts].
6-22: DC in each st across, ch2 & turn. On the last row, do not ch2 & turn.
Bodice Join:
You will now join the front and back bodice pieces to be worked together, in the round. Fold back of the bodice over the front of the bodice so that the foundation chain edge and the row you just worked are aligned. Slst with the first foundation chain on the front bodice piece to join. Ch1, SC in to each of the 54 (60, 66, 72, 78) (84, 90, 96, 102) sts along bottom edge of the front bodice, when you reach the end, continue on and SC into each of the back bodice sts. Slst with 1st SC worked to join. You will now have all sts from both body pieces joined in the round. Ch1 & turn. [108, (120, 132, 144, 156), (168, 180, 192, 204) sts].
Skirt:
1: [SC, ch1, sk2, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1, sk2] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
2: [sk3, SC, ch1, sk3, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
3: HDC in the next 2 sts, sk1, [SC, sk1, HDC in the next 5, sk1] to last 5 sts, SC, sk1, HDC in final 3 sts. Slst with first HDC to join, ch2 & turn.
4: [DC, inc in next st] to end of rd. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. [162, (180, 198, 216, 234), (252, 270,
288, 306) sts].
5-13: DC in each st around. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. On the last rd, ch1 & turn.
**NOTE: if you want to make your skirt longer/shorter, you must work more/less rows at this point. At this point, you will increase half of the length you want to add to your skirt. For example, if you want to make your skirt 1” longer (2 rows longer), work 1 additional DC row here and 1 additional DC row after round 26.
14-16: as rounds 1-3.
17: [DC in the next 2 sts, inc in next st] to end of rd. Slst to to join, ch2 & turn. [216, (240, 264, 288, 312), (336, 360, 384, 408) sts ].
18- 26: DC in each st around. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. On the last rd, ch1 & turn.
**NOTE: if making your skirt longer/shorter, work more/less rows here as done after round 13.
27-29: as rounds 1-3.
30: [DC in the next 3 sts, inc in next st] to end of rd. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. [270, (300, 330, 360, 390), (420, 450, 480, 510) sts].
31-32: as rounds 1-2.
33: [sk3, SC, ch1, sk3, (TR, ch1, TR, ch1, TR) in next st, ch1] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
34: SC in chsp, ch3, (SC in next chsp, ch3) 2x, [SC2tog in next 2 chsp, (ch3, SC in next chsp) 2x, ch3] to final chsp, SC in fi nal chsp, slst with first SC to join. Break yarn and pull through to secure. Weave in end.
Neckline:
Beginning at the right side of the back neckline, pull up a loop. Ch1, SC 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24) across back neckline, SC 40 (40, 40, 42, 42) (42, 44, 44, 44) along edge of neckline to center front, SC 40 (40, 40, 42, 42) (42, 44, 44, 44) up along opposite edge of neckline, slst with first SC worked to join. Break yarn and pull through to secure.
Sleeves:
Seam each side of the body to join the front and back bodice.
Beginning at underarm, pull up a loop and SC 8 (8, 8, 10, 10) (10, 12, 12, 12) across underarm, SC 35 (35, 35, 40, 40) (40, 45, 45, 45) up arm opening to top of shoulder, SC 35 (35, 35, 40, 40) (40, 45, 45, 45) down arm opening to underarm. Slst with first SC to join. Ch1 & turn. [ 78, (78, 78, 90, 90), (90, 102, 102, 102) sts].
Work rows 31-34 as done for bottom of skirt.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends. Block by soaking in warm water or steaming and lay flat to dry.
Enjoy your crochet sun dress!
For questions, please email support@originallylovely.com
I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely on Instagram!
Looking for other summer crochet patterns? Check out the Perfect Crochet T-Shirt or the Cove Tote Bag!
Hello, I am supremely interested in this pattern, but I would like to make it longer. Would I just keep repeating the bottom section until I got to the length I wanted?
Hi Jacki! I have instructions noted in the pattern for adding length. When working the skirt, you want each ‘tier’ between the lace detailing to be the same length. To do this you will need to lengthen in row increments of 2, one row in each tier. If you look under the instructions in the skirt section I explain this a bit more! Hope that helps 🙂
Hi, I just finished joining the front and back panels, and am about to start the skirt. However, the top part is extremely short! Perhaps because I am bustier… Is there any way to lengthen this before I start the skirt? Thanks in advance, excited to finish the dress!
Hi! It does get a bit longer because the skirt is kind of heavy and ‘pulls’ on the top a bit… but to make it longer within the pattern, you could simply work the front and back panels a bit further before joining together!
Hope that helps!
-Kaitlin
Thank you for the pattern came out wonderful; and lot of my fmily and friends just love it too. I change some of it to fit my personality but kept it to your pattern mostly just made it longer and to be me. Thanks love it a lot .Karen
I finally finished this! I went a bit rogue on the skirt and lengthened the sleeves slightly but I LOVE it! I’ve done it in a teal blue and I’m getting married in it in four days! 😍
I am currently working on this project, and I am loving it. I did notice in issue in the pattern and was hoping that I was not the only one that had this issues. When it comes to the skirt, one of the sections says that total stitch count should be 198 (so for the medium size) but the row before has a total count of 192, did I mess this up by accident, or is that just a typo? Below is the section that I found the issue:
1: [SC, ch1, sk2, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1, sk2] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
2: [sk3, SC, ch1, sk3, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
3: HDC in the next 2 sts, sk1, [SC, sk1, HDC in the next 5, sk1] to last 5 sts, SC, sk1, HDC in final 3 sts. Slst with first HDC to join, ch2 & turn.
4: [DC, inc in next st] to end of rd. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. [162, (180, 198, 216, 234), (252, 270, 288, 306) sts].
5-13: DC in each st around. Slst to join, ch2 & turn. On the last rd, ch1 & turn.
Hello! Thanks for reaching out! After taking a deeper look at your question, I think your stitch count may be off by a bit. It would be helpful to see a photo of this part of the pattern, so if you could send one to our support email, that would be great! We will be able to give a more detailed answer then (:
Hi there lovely
Im currently about to start right front part of the bodice. Im cunfused because in the instructions id say to do a Dc2tog on the outer end, at the armpit. Shouldnt it be at the middle, or have i read it wrong?
Hi Poppy! Is there a specific row you are looking at or are you confused about this section generally? You could also send a photo of what you have so far to our support email and we can try to help trouble shoot that way too! (:
Hi Kaitlin! Loving the pattern.
I just started the skirt with these rows
SKIRT:
1: [SC, ch1, sk2, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1, sk2] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
2: [sk3, SC, ch1, sk3, (DC, ch1, DC, ch1, DC) in next st, ch1] to end of round. Slst with first SC to join, ch2 & turn.
In row three I’m a little confused about skipping. Do the chains from the previous row count as stitches?
Thanks, Clara.
Hi Clara! Yes, when you are counting the stitches you count the chains as well, so when it says sk3 you skip 3 stitches, chains included in this count. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I love this pattern and the first time I made it I wasn’t on a limit of yarn so the count being off wasn’t a big deal. However this time I only have the exact yarn amount and somehow when making the skirt, I started with the 144 (large) and by the time I was done with row 3 of the skirt I was at 280 and mine looks the same as the one in the picture so I’m confused on how I did more than double what I was supposed to. Wondering where I messed up and added that much more.
Hi Kelly! Could you email us a photo to support@originallylovely.com? We will likely be able to figure out what’s going on once we see it!
Hello, I would like to ask you if this particular pattern would work in a wool silk blend yarn I would love to make it but I’m not a huge fan of cotton yarn! Thanks
Hi Rose! You could certainly try (we have not made it using that blend) but I would strongly recommend gauge swatching first just to make sure you like the fabric before finishing the entire project!
Hi! Love this pattern and my plan is to wear it to graduation. However, I’m having trouble understanding the part for the skirt. I have made the first row which feels correct, but I don’t think I get row 2 and 3 correct. I am making the dress in size 3xl and assume that it should be 180 sts before row 4 so that it will be 270 after the DC, inc row (row 4). I have 180sts after row 1 but get less sts after 2 & 3 which seems logic if you look at what you’re doing. What do I possibly think or do wrong?
Hi! Your stitch counts do change slightly in rounds 3 and 4 because of the lace, do you want to email us a photo at support@originallylovely.com ? That will help us see what you might be doing wrong (:
Hello! I just read over your pattern, and I can already tell that it would be a lot of fun to make. I saw the adjustment instructions included in the pattern, but I don’t know if it can be adjusted enough to fit my needs, and I’m reluctant to buy the yarn for it before I know for sure.
I’m considering making this for my friend, who has a lot of trouble finding dresses, since she’s well over 6 feet tall. I’d probably need to make the skirt a lot longer for it to be comfortable for her. Do you think it would be possible to add a third or fourth repeat of the dc/lace layer on the skirt, or would that mess up the stitch count too much?
Thank you so much! I hope you have a lovely day!
Hi! How sweet of you to make this for your friend! I would add just one or two rows to each tier of the skirt to add a bit of length. Adding an additional tier would make it significantly longer and quite a bit heavier so I wouldn’t recommend that. For a bit of assistance, this dress is photographed on someone who is 6′ tall and gets by wearing regular length dresses. Hope that helps!
Alright. Thank you!