Maria Top Crochet Pattern

Introducing: The Maria Top — Free Crochet Pattern

This beginner friendly crochet top pattern is worked from the top, down in granny stitch.

maria top crochet pattern main image, model sitting on sidewalk in front of white building wearing a multicolored crocheted top worked in granny stitch

Available as a free pattern and as a kit with Lion Brand Yarn. Scroll down to access the free pattern or continue reading to learn a bit about the design and some pointers to help you out!

**please note, some links may be affiliate links which will allow me to make a small commission on products purchased through my referral. This does not influence my opinion or the price of the item that you are purchasing in any way.

The Design

 Knitting and Crochet have a stereotype associated with them that they are for ‘grandmas.’ Which is fine, grandmas are amazing, but I think we should be able to enjoy the hobbies we love regardless of age.

When someone asks you where you got this top (which they will) you can tell them that you made it and its actually crocheted in granny stitch!

detail image of maria top showing the individual granny stitches and stripe detailing.  Image is closeup with light shining on the top and shaded trees behind

One of my favorite parts of this top is that it’s actually super fun to make! I love seeing the colors develop and the stitches are quite large so it doesn’t take that long.

Granny stitch is super easy to work because you aren’t actually crocheting into a stitch, you are crocheting into a gap space. This means your hook slides in so easily because the gap space is quite a bit larger. Granny stitch is the perfect stitch to work when you are watching tv or are paying attention to other things as well.

If you’ve never worked granny stitch before, no worries! This is my favorite tutorial that will show you how to work this stitch. Please note, this tutorial is shown flat but this top will be worked in the round but the stitch itself is the same.

How this crochet top is constructed

This crochet top is worked from the top, down using a raglan style construction. This means that you are increasing at corners of the yoke to shape the body and the sleeves. The corners are worked just as the corners of a granny square would be worked!

Another great thing about this sweater is that its worked in-the-round so there will be no seaming at the end. Just weave in the ends and you are done!

I will note that I didn’t weave in the ends for every row, I actually tied knots and it worked out great! πŸ™‚ Generally I avoid knots in my work but this top was an exception!

side image of maria top on model looking down sitting in front of a white building.

Yarn and Materials

The yarn that I used for this top is Lion Brand Coboo. This is my all time favorite warm weather yarn. Its made of 50% cotton and 50% bamboo so it is amazingly soft with beautiful drape. I will note though, this yarn does have a tendency to split when working so if that is something that bothers you it might be best to go with another option. For me personally, I don’t notice a big issue with splitting. It could be because I use these crochet hooks which are my favorite.

One way to make this top more cost effective is to change the number of colors you are using based on your size. For example, if you are planning on using 5 colors to crochet a 5X top, you would need 10 balls of yarn because you need over 100g per color. But, if you modify this and use 7 colors, you would only need one ball of each color. This would save you from buying three more balls of yarn!

Yarn Substitutions

Although I highly recommend Lion Brand Coboo yarn, there are many other great yarns out there that will work as well! Luckily, this top is worked using DK weight yarn which is a super common yarn weight. Some of my favorites are:

  • Cotton Bamboo from Lion Brand LB Collection: this yarn is from Lion Brand’s premium yarn line so it’s quite luxurious. There isn’t as many colors with this yarn so it might work best with fewer stripe colors or for a solid top.
  • CotLin from KnitPicks: another amazing summer yarn, CotLin comes in tons of colors and is super affordable. This yarn would be perfect for a top with lots of colors. Just note, this yarn comes in 50g balls so adjust how much you need to order accordingly!
  • Gloss DK from KnitPicks: this yarn is a super dreamy combination of 70% merino wool and 30% silk. This would be perfect if you want your top to be a bit lighter since cotton can be a little heavy. Wool is also warmer than cotton but with this airy stitch I think it would still be comfortable

Maria Top Crochet Pattern

Β© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2021

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.

Shop the kit with Lion Brand Yarn HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Maria Top on Ravelry, CLICK HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Maria Top on Etsy, CLICK HERE

lifestyle image of maria top being worn on a model sitting on a sidewalk in front of white building smiling at the camera

Skill Level

Easy +

Materials

350, (375, 425, 475, 500), (550, 600, 650, 700) grams / 815, (870, 985, 1100, 1160), (1275, 1395, 1510, 1625) yards Lion Brand Coboo yarn; 1, (1, 1, 1, 1), (2, 2, 2, 2) balls in each color Taupe, Tan, Mauve, Pale Pink, and White. 

Size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook (my favorite crochet hook set linked here)

Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

NOTE ON YARN: As mentioned above, you can make this more cost effective by using more colors for the larger sizes and use more full balls. For example, with size 5X you may choose to use 7 colors, each in a 100g ball of yarn.



Notes

This pattern is worked seamlessly from the top, down. You will begin at the neckline, increase in a raglan style to shape your sleeves and body, and then separate. Your body will be finished first, followed by each sleeve. This top is shown using 5 colors and switching after each row in the same order throughout the sweater. You may use more or less colors depending on your preference. 

NOTE: In this pattern, the ch3 at the end each row counts as the first double crochet for the next row. 

Finished Dimensions

crochet top pattern schematic drawing showing the dimensions for various sizes to help crocheters choose what size to make
XSSMLXL2X3X4X5X
Bust/Chest Circumference32.53639.544.54851.556.56063.5
Finished Length22.5232323.523.5242424.524.5
Measurements are finished sweater dimensions and are given in inches

XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Crochet pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin. 

Help Choosing Size

This top is designed to be worn with 0-4” of positive ease. Model is 6’ tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size Small with 3” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 0-4” larger than your corresponding bust measurement. For example, if your bust is 45”, you would wear a size XL. 

Gauge

14 stitches and 11 rows = 4” in granny stitch using size 4.0 mm crochet hook. 

Note on gauge: We are counting each DC as a stitch NOT the 3DC clusters that makes up each granny stitch cluster. This gauge is quite stretchy so be sure not to stretch fabric when you are measuring gauge. 

front image of maria top crochet pattern showing neckline detail and relaxed fit of sleeves

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using U.S. English  terminology using Craft Yarn Council Standards

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed. 

( ) = work instructions within parenthesis as directed. 

* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed. 

BLO = back loop only

CH = chain stitch

DC = double crochet

GAP SP = gap space, this is referring to the gap that is created between each double crochet cluster

HDC = half double crochet

RS = right side

SC = single crochet 

SLST = slip stitch

SP = space

ST = stitch

STS = stitches

WS = wrong side

Maria Top Crochet Pattern

In Color A, ch 86 (92, 98, 92, 92) (98, 104, 104, 104).

Round 1: in 3rd ch from hook, DC, DC across once in each ch. With new color, slst to join in round, ch3. [84, (90, 96, 90, 90), (96, 102, 102, 102) sts]. 

2: 2 DC in same st as ch, [skip 2 sts, 3 DC into next st] 5 (5, 5, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 8 (9, 10, 10, 10) (11, 12, 12, 12) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 6 (6, 6, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5) times, ch2, [skip 2, 3 DC into next st] 8 (9, 10, 10, 10) (11, 12, 12, 12) times, ch2. With new color, slst to join with 1st st, ch3. [92, (98, 104, 98, 98), (104, 110, 110, 110) sts]. 



Note: You have now set up to shape your raglans. Your piece will look like a rectangle and each ch2 space is a corner. The second and fourth sides will be the body, and the first and third sides will be the sleeves. You will now increase in the chain spaces on each row to shape the raglan yoke. 

3: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap space to the ch2 sp, * (3 DC, ch2, 3 DC) in the ch2 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch2 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, 3 DC, ch2, slst with new color to join, ch3. [104, (110, 116, 110, 110), (116, 122, 122, 122) sts]. 

Repeat row 3 9, (10, 11, 14, 16), (17, 19, 21, 23) more times. [212, (230, 248, 278, 302), (320, 350, 374, 398) sts]. 



4: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to the ch2 sp, * (3 DC, ch1, 3 DC) in the ch2 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch2 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, 3 DC, ch1, slst with new color to join, ch3. [220, (238, 256, 286, 310), (328, 358, 382, 406) sts]. 

5: 2 DC in the ch sp right below the slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to the ch1 sp, *3 dc in the ch 1 sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to the next ch1 sp. Rep from * to last ch sp, slst with new color to join, ch3. [216, (234, 252, 282, 306), (324, 354, 378, 402) sts]. 

back image of crochet top being worn by model standing in front of red rock background

Body: 

You will now separate your yoke to form two sleeves and join the body of your sweater. 

6: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, ch6, skip next 17 (18, 19, 21, 23) (24, 26, 28, 30) gap spaces, 3 DC in next 19 (21, 23, 26, 28) (30, 33, 35, 37) gap spaces, ch6, skip next 17 (18, 19, 21, 23) (24, 26, 28, 30) gap spaces, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3. [120, (132, 144, 162, 174), (186, 204, 216, 228) sts]. 



7: skip 4 sts, 3 DC in 5th st (the second ch of the ch6), skip 2, 3 DC in next st, 3 DC in each gap sp until next ch6 sp, 3 DC in second ch st, skip 2, 3 DC in next ch st, 3 DC in each gap sp until last st, 2 DC in the final gap st next to the ch3, slst with new color to join, ch3. 

8: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3. 

9: skip the gap sp below the slst join, 3 DC in next gap sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, 2 DC in gap sp under slst join, slst with new color to join, ch3. 



Repeat rounds 8-9 until body measures 13.5, (13.5, 13, 12.75, 12), (12, 11.25, 10.75, 10)” from underarm join. You may work more or less rows at this point to make your top longer or shorter. On the last round, ch2 at the end instead of ch3.

Final Round: 1 DC in each st around (be sure to work into the stitches, not the gap spaces), slst to join.

Pull the last stitch all the way through to secure, cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in. 

Sleeves: 

You will now work each sleeve. 

Starting at the center underarm st, begin working in the color next in sequence for your sleeves. See fig. 1 below for help understanding where your underarm st clusters will go. 

figure one of the underarm of the maria top crochet pattern detailing where to put the stitches at the underarm as to avoid gapping or holes
Figure 1

1: ch3 into center underarm sp, 2 DC in this same sp, 3 DC in each gap sp around sleeve, slst with new color to join, ch3. [60, (63, 66, 72, 78), (81, 87, 93, 99) sts]. 

2: skip the gap sp below the slst join, 3 DC in next gap sp, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, 2 DC in gap sp under slst join, slst with new color to join, ch3. 



3: 2 DC in ch sp below slst, 3 DC in each gap sp to end of round, slst with new color to join, ch3. 

Repeat rounds 2-3 once more. You may work more rows at this point if you want your sleeves to be longer. 

Final Round: 1 DC in each st around (be sure to work into the stitches, not the gap spaces), slst to join.

Pull the last stitch all the way through to secure, cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in. 

Repeat for second sleeve. 

main image of maria crochet top being worn by model with her arm up through her hair showing the raglan detailing and the relaxed fit of sleeves

Finishing: 

Weave in all ends to secure. 

To block, soak in warm water and lay flat to dry. 

Enjoy!

For questions, please email kaitlin@originallylovely.com

I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely and @lionbrandyarn on Instagram!

Looking for other crochet patterns? Check out the April Sweater or the Rosebud Scarf!

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12 Comments

  1. The pattern is very beautiful and thank you for making a free option. But I just wanted to say that the light pink lettering is kind of hard to read.

  2. I love those hooks too! I recommend them to everyone! No need for the expensive ones. Also, been crocheting since I was 4, now 44, since I started using the ergonomic hook design, I have less cramping, don’t think I could go back to ones without handles.
    Oh! I I will definitely try this patter!

    1. I love that you like them too! They are so good, and the whole set is the price of ONE hook a craft store. Definitely no need for the expensive ones. I buy every new crocheter I know this hook set and everyone loves them!

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